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Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG

The Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG was unveiled at Baselworld 2018. This fine timepiece is endowed with a classical black guilloché dial and a case featuring contemporary lugs. Angus Davies looks closely at this latest addition to Urban Jurgensen’s family of models.

This detailed review of the Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG includes live images and specification.

Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG featuring hand-wound P4 movement and black guilloché dial

The Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG blends a stunning black guilloché dial with a gorgeous 40mm white gold case. The contrasting tones confer a beauteous appearance, while the neutral colour scheme befits any sartorial ensemble.

The Swiss-based company employs a high quotient of hand-craftsmanship. Most notably, each dial requires ‘up to 700 operations and takes two full days of handwork to complete’. The reliance on adroit hands results in no two dials being exactly the same, conferring a degree of individuality absent from mass-produced objects.

While the Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG shares some classical elements with other Urban Jurgensen models, it also features contemporary lugs. This juxtaposition of classical and contemporary elements may sound strange but it works remarkably well, resulting in an impressively cohesive aesthetic.

There are many specification details which distinguish the Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG as extraordinary. This review highlights the many attributes which make this watch special.

The dial

The centre of the one piece solid silver dial is endowed with Grain d’Orge. This motif is painstakingly created using a rose-engine lathe. Positioned at 6 o’clock is a small seconds display featuring a basket work pattern. Both of these contrasting forms of decoration orchestrate light wonderfully.

Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG featuring hand-wound P4 movement and black guilloché dial

The hour track is composed of white gold batons sitting atop a smooth circlet. Each baton is faceted and sports a pointed tip, guiding the eye to the fulcrum of the dial. Adjacent the hour track are delicate pearl-like minute markers. 

Rings of saute piqué delineate the hour track from the neighbouring central dial area and the adjacent chapter ring.

The hour and minute hands are solid white gold. They are not the result of expedient stamping, but rather the product of honing, polishing and assembling by hand. The solid gold centre canons are turned on a precision lathe and mirror-polished.

The lithesome hour and minute hands are especially elegant and eloquently impart the time. Indeed, a reoccurring theme with this timepiece is that beauty and functionality sit side by side.

The case

The Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG features a 40mm round case. It is of three part construction and equipped with a convex bezel. Interestingly, the case shape brings together fascinating convex and concave contours. It is the fusion of these contours which suffuses the case with pockets of light and shade.

Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG featuring hand-wound P4 movement and black guilloché dial

The ‘contemporary lugs’ jut outwards from the caseband at a perpendicular angle. Thereafter, they swoop inwards as they approach the black alligator strap. Each lug features a faceted edge, bestowing further allure.

Urban Jürgensen’s famous teardrop lugs evince a gorgeous appearance and form one of the pillars of the brand’s DNA. They exhibit a classical mien and successfully complement the company’s legendary guilloché dials. Therefore, the ‘contemporary lugs’ fitted to the Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG represent a brave departure for this most traditional of maisons.

Rest assured, the so-called ‘contemporary lugs’ are not indicative of a new avant-garde design language. Their sharply arcing profile continues to uphold Urban Jürgensen’s reputation for seemly styling and tasteful understatement. Furthermore, the contemporary lugs and guilloché dials prove happy bedfellows.

The movement

The hand-wound, Urban Jürgensen P4 movement is visible via a sapphire case-back. The balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and the movement features 23 jewels. Both the jewel and screw sinks are polished to a shiny conclusion.

Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG featuring hand-wound P4 movement and black guilloché dial

The bridges are beautifully adorned with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. Golden text proclaims the maker’s nomen and specifies the number of jewels present. Each bridge is exquisitely bevelled, providing gleaming edges adjacent bridge surfaces and flanks. The ratchet wheel is readily visible and features a circular grained upper surface punctuated with a thermally blued screw.

A liberal sprinkling of blued screws occupy the bridges, the aforementioned ratchet wheel and the click. While some marques achieve the blue appearance chemically, Urban Jürgensen heat metal components using a flame in order to realise a vivid shade of cornflower blue. This traditional approach proves more time-consuming to achieve than chemical treatments, however, by employing this method, the corrosion resistance of each screw is enhanced and a sumptuous aesthetic is achieved.

In addition to the previously mentioned ‘contemporary lugs’, a dose of modernity can also be seen with the balance bridge of the P4 movement. The openworked balance bridge looks decidedly different from those used in bygone times. The bridge consists of two arms which straddle the balance, affording excellent views of it oscillating to and fro.

Closing remarks

A fundamental strength of all Urban Jürgensen’s watches are the dials. Over the years the maison has seduced horophiles with glorious grainage and guilloché dials. With the Urban Jurgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG, the historical maison has delivered another artistic canvas brimming with excellence. Everything is elegant and tasteful. Furthermore, beyond the dial’s aesthetic beauty, it masterfully communicates with its fortunate wearer.

The hand-wound P4 movement surpasses the essential and indulges connoisseurs with its impressive finishing. Time-served hands have lovingly embellished the bridges with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes and enhanced this horological vista with thermally-blued screws and resplendent anglage. I particularly appreciate the open-worked balance bridge which provides a virtually unhindered view of the balance wheel industriously rotating. Contemporary lugs add a subtle dose of modernity to Urban Jürgensen’s traditional design language. However, nothing undermines the essence of the brand.

While this is a new model, it is instantly recognisable as an Urban Jürgensen timepiece. It has been carefully constructed by a maison employing an inordinate amount of hand craftsmanship and, in so doing, delivers a wonderful lasting appeal.

Further information

https://www.urbanjurgensen.com

Technical specification

  • Model: Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Reference 2140 WG
  • Case: 18-carat white gold; diameter 40mm; sapphire crystal to front and case-back; water resistance 3 ATM (30 metres)
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds
  • Movement: Urban Jürgensen Movement P4; hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 VpH (3Hz); 23 jewels; power reserve 72 hours
  • Strap: Alligator strap with white gold pin buckle

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