Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG

The consummate orator

The Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG deftly communicates with the wearer, exercising a judicious tone and perfect volume. Moreover, its elegant styling ensures observers will not grow tired of what it has to say.

 

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Presently, in my native England, politicians of various persuasions are traversing the country, either proclaiming the merit of staying within Europe or, conversely, leaving. Irrespective of their viewpoint, these public figures often share two failings. Firstly, the speech they employ invariably proves too loud, and the vocabulary chosen is often boring, causing bystanders to switch off. Secondly, some of the information presented can at times appear irrelevant, distracting the electorate from the critical arguments which should be made.

 

A consummate orator has sufficient insight to modulate their voice to a level that encourages the audience to listen and skilfully employs interesting vocabulary. Moreover, they intuitively know which information is of vital importance and avoid confusion with superfluous data.

 

Recently, I held the new Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG in my hands and marvelled at its magnificent means of communicating with the wearer. Indeed, this exemplar of haute horlogerie shares the same talents demonstrated by a consummate orator, eloquently engaging with those fortunate souls who make its acquaintance.

 

The dial

The ‘Grenage dial’ comprises of a solid silver disc which is engraved with numerals and various markings such as the small circlets encircling its periphery. These engravings are hand-filled with lacquer and hardened. The dial surface is then polished with diamond-paper, leaving a residue of lacquer in the recesses made. Thereafter, a wet paste, consisting of silver, salt and other undisclosed ingredients, is painted onto the dial surface to form layers. An ‘electrochemical’ reaction then takes place, resulting in a textured, pearl-like finish.

 

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The ‘Grenage’ process, especially the precise composition of the wet paste, is shrouded in secrecy with practitioners closely guarding their methods. The resultant dial canvas is fascinating to behold, displaying a delightful profundity to its appearance with a sumptuous granular texture.

 

Thermally blued steel and rose gold hands proclaim time eloquently with their neat, slender profiles. The hour hand, in common with several other Urban Jürgensen timepieces, features a diamond polished eye in rose gold. The exacting, precise fit of the eye means it is clicked into position and retained purely by friction.

 

Breguet numerals are employed for the hour markers, gracefully imparting information with seemly tone. Positioned around the extremities of the dial are a series of short black strokes and small dots which collaborate with both the minute hand and the supremely lithe central seconds hand, to articulate time with notable clarity.

 

The date is delivered using black numerals presented on a white disc, via an aperture at 3 o’clock. The rectangular date aperture incorporates a sloping internal frame, exquisitely bridging the differing heights of the main dial surface and the date disc beneath.

 

The case

The 40mm rose gold case exhibits a tasteful restraint. Its appearance avoids gauche or outré styling yet proves interesting, employing a myriad of captivating contours. The bezel features a concave profile along its external edge and the upper sapphire crystal is domed.

 

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The case band is stepped both at the top and bottom of its vertical surface. The vertical edge of the case band is convex, providing an attractive contradistinction to the concave bezel. Moreover, by adopting this design, the case masterfully manipulates available light, casting beautiful shadows and creating contrasting, gleaming episodes of brightness.

 

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A flat sapphire crystal graces the caseback, revealing the gloriously finished hand-wound movement within.

 

The crown sits close to the case band, according a sense of neatness whilst still proving easy to manipulate. The maison’s logo features on the vertical plane of the knurled crown.

 

In the last couple of years, I have had the pleasure of placing several Urban Jürgensen timepieces upon my appreciative wrist, repeatedly admiring the company’s trademark ‘teardrop lugs’. The Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG eschews said ‘teardrop lugs’ in favour of ‘contemporary tapered lugs’, however, the modernity exampled by these alternatively styled horns still proffers an abundance of eye appeal.

 

The movement

Unlike the Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds Ref 1142 C CS RG which is unusually equipped with a detent escapement, the Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG contains a more conventional Swiss lever escapement. Whilst this choice of escapement may be more mainstream, there is nothing ordinary about the brand’s in-house P4 movement.

 

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The bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes and feature delightful hand chamfered edges. The internal angles wonderfully demonstrate the peerless execution of the movement finishing. The jewel sinks are highly polished and glisten with a comely brilliance.

 

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I especially like the open-worked balance bridge, it exhibits an aesthetic lightness and allows the wearer to see the balance and circular grained main plate beneath. The thermally blued screws and rubies add an agreeable smattering of colour to the movement vista.

 

Twin barrels work in harmony to deliver a power reserve of 60 hours.

 

Closing remarks

The Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG displays hours, minutes, central sweep seconds and the date. The four indications will fulfil the needs and desires of many would-be buyers. Indeed, the display provides sufficient information without overburdening the wearer with extraneous and confusing details.

 

The succinct delivery of information proves user-friendly to interpret, focussing on the essential. However, despite the concise delivery of data, the tone of the hands, dial and case exudes style and could never be accused of being perfunctory. The aesthetics of this timepiece reveal a high quotient of tasteful style.

 

Behind the exterior of the dial and case, there is much virtue to be found with the in-house P4 hand-wound movement. Indeed, unlike some politicians, there is congruence with this timepiece between the external appearance and the internal workings.

 

The Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Ref 2240 RG shares the capability of a consummate orator with its superb ability to communicate. However, view this timepiece at close quarters and one can also appreciate the palpable honesty and integrity of each element of its composition. This is a watch which has definitely won my vote.

 

Technical specification

  • Model: Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection Ref 2240RG
  • Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 40.00 mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds; date.
  • Movement: Urban Jürgensen P4 base movement, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 24 jewels; power reserve 60 hours.
  • Strap: Brown leather strap, presented on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.
  • Price: CHF 29,100 excluding taxes (RRP as at 13.5.2016)

 

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Angus Davies

Angus is a self-confessed watch addict and is frequently asked to contribute to various printed magazines and websites around the globe. He also writes for individual watch companies on matters of horology and has appeared on television and radio as an industry expert.