Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
Angus Davies appraises the new Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military, recently unveiled at SIHH 2018.
This detailed overview of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military includes live images, specification and pricing.
Last year, Ulysse Nardin unveiled the beautiful Marine Torpilleur, a timepiece blessed with a pure complexion. This year, building on the success of the aforementioned watch, Ulysse Nardin has released a military version of the former watch, the Marine Torpilleur Military. While both watches share the same UN-118 movement, they exhibit a very different character.
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military showcases a modern aesthetic featuring a sandblasted steel case and generously proportioned 44mm case. However, despite its contemporary character this watch can still trace its origins to the pocket chronometers of the 19th century which have made Ulysse Nardin synonymous with notable precision.
An eggshell white dial provides a beautiful background for the articulate and sinuously formed hour and minute hands. Each hand is optimally proportioned with the hour hand kissing the hour track and the minute hand embracing the minute track.
Each hour is represented with Arabic numerals. These numerals sit flush with the dial epidermis, appearing understated, functional and remarkably clear.
Located above 6 o’clock is a small seconds display. The subdial is slightly recessed, snailed and features a chemin de fer. The letters C.W proclaim this watch as a ‘Chronometer Watch’ and reference the military models of yesteryear. The red numerals proclaimed on the small seconds display show the timepiece’s unique serial number, one of 300 pieces in a limited series.
While the Marine Torpilleur of 2017 features a date aperture, this year’s Marine Torpilleur Military forgoes a date display and, in my opinion, looks cleaner as a result.
Measuring 44mm in diameter, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military is no shrinking violet. The sandblasted case has a rich texture which invites curious fingers to explore its tactile surface.
There is no sharpness to the case surface but a slightly coarse texture which is consistent with the military remit of the watch.
The crown sits proud of the case-band, allowing ease of adjustment. The Maison’s logo adorns the vertical flank of the crown. The knurled texture of the crown facilitates manipulation.
Contrary to today’s predilection for exhibition case-backs, Ulysse Nardin has sympathetically respected historical military watches, equipping this model with a solid case-back. A depiction of a ‘Torpilleur boat’ adorns the dorsal flank of the watch.
Every detail of the case is wonderfully executed. The design of this watch respectfully re-interprets the aesthetics of former models while bringing something new to the table.
Ulysse Nardin has fitted the Marine Torpilleur Military with its tried and trusted caliber UN-118.
Consistent with the contemporary design codes of this watch, the movement is equally modern. The escapement features a patented ‘inertial balance wheel’ and silicon hairspring. The movement is in-house designed and the watch is a chronometer, independently certified by COSC.
The combination of an in-house movement and COSC certification normally commands a price premium. However, the Marine Torpilleur Military is priced very keenly at €7,900.
The watch has a power reserve of 60 hours, surpassing most automatic movements, and the caliber UN-118 contains 50 jewels.
It is not possible to see the movement finishing owing to the solid case-back.
Ulysse Nardin has a rich history of producing marine chronometers. The Swiss brand from Le Locle has repeatedly employed this acquired expertise, creating timepieces imbued with exceptional accuracy. This latest watch, the Marine Torpilleur Military, is a supremely accurate chronometer (COSC). It also features an in-house movement and is offered at a very competitive price, €7,900.
Furthermore, the Marine Torpilleur Military is blessed with a highly legible dial, fascinating case finish and an incredibly handsome appearance, once again, demonstrating this Manufacture’s prowess at making glorious watches.
• Model: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
• Case: Stainless steel; diameter 44mm; sapphire crystal to front and solid case-back; water resistant to 5 ATM (50 metres).
• Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds
• Movement: Caliber UN-118; Self-winding movement; 50 jewels; power reserve=60 hours
• Strap: Brown leather strap
• Price: €7,900 (RRP as at 21.1.2018)