Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” references the year the brand released its legendary reference 7924 or ‘Big Crown’. This latest model is housed in a 39mm steel case, features a blue domed dial, a matching blue bezel and a Manufacture automatic movement.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"

The Swiss watch brand, Tudor, was established in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. In 2010, the company launched its Heritage collection of models, inspired by legendary models of yesteryear. Perhaps the most prominent member of this collection remains the Tudor Black Bay (the brand no longer uses the word ‘Heritage’).

The first Tudor Black Bay model was unveiled in 2012 and was inspired by a vintage reference dating back to 1954. The 2012 model, housed in a 41mm steel case, had a burgundy aluminium bezel, a black dial and Snowflake hands. The following year, in 2013, the watch won the ‘Revival Prize’ at the GPHG.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"

Tudor received further GPHG silverware for the Pelagos (2015), the Bronze Black Bay (2016), the Black Bay Chrono (2017) and the Black Bay P01 (2019). Part of the brand’s allure can be attributed to its winning blend of timeless aesthetics, great design, mechanical virtue, palpable quality and incredible value for money.

At no stage has Tudor rested on its laurels. It has continuously embraced new colourways, released models with complications (in addition to its three-hander, the Genevan marque offers a GMT and chronograph) and alternative case finishes. In 2015, the firm unveiled its own Manufacture movement, the Calibre MT5402. This movement features a variable inertia balance, silicon balance spring and COSC certification.

Recently, the company unveiled its latest creation, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. Housed in an on-trend 39mm case it features a domed blue dial and coordinating anodised aluminium bezel.

The brand’s press release

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” gets its name from its colour, of course, but also from the year 1958, in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), reference 7924 or “Big Crown”, was presented. Among other aesthetic nods to this historic watch, this model offers a 39 mm diameter case in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. Ideal for slim wrists, people who like more compact watches and vintage enthusiasts, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” also carries on with the long TUDOR tradition of blue sports watches.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"

Key Points

  1. 39-millimetre case in 316L stainless steel
  2. Navy Blue matt domed dial, grained with applied hour-markers
  3. “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches, since 1969, with grade A, Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminescent material
  4. Manufacture Calibre MT5402, COSC-certified with silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve
  5. Three straps/bracelet options: blue Jacquard fabric with silver band, blue “soft touch”, and “riveted” steel
  6. Five-year transferable guarantee, with no registration or periodic maintenance checks required

Tudor Blue

In 1969, TUDOR introduced a divers’ watch with a blue dial and bezel. The other sports watches in the collection were soon attired in blue, immediately creating a lasting aesthetic hallmark known as “TUDOR Blue”. Adopted by the French navy for its TUDOR divers’ watches during the 1970s, this livery became part of the collective imagination. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” follows in this tradition with its navy blue dial and bezel insert. This is a colour that also appears on the “soft touch” strap offered with this model and made from a synthetic, tactile material resembling flannel.

10 Years of the Tudor Fabric Strap

Navy blue is also the dominant colour of the fabric strap offered with this model. The fabric strap is one of the hallmarks of TUDOR, which, in 2010, became one of the very first watchmaking brands to offer it with its products. Woven in France on 19th century Jacquard looms by the Julien Faure company in the St-Etienne region, its manufacturing quality and comfort on the wrist are unique. In 2020, TUDOR and Julien Faure, a 150-year old family company, celebrate 10 years of a partnership that started just before the launch of the Heritage Chrono in 2010, the first model of the brand to be fitted with a fabric strap created by the artisan. A fine anniversary for an enduring collaboration built on outstanding expertise.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"

The Calibre MT5402

The Manufacture Calibre MT5402, which equips the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”, displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture calibres. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.

Its build has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity, reliability and precision, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Together with its non-magnetic silicon hairspring, the Manufacture Calibre MT5402 is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows for an average variation in the daily running rate of a watch movement of between -4 and +6 seconds in relation to absolute time, TUDOR applies a tolerance of between -2 and +4 seconds’ variation in its daily rate on the watch fully assembled.

Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture MT5402 Calibre is “weekend-proof”; that is to say about 70 hours, which enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind and reset it.

The Essence of Black Bay

Like other models in the Black Bay range, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” adopts TUDOR’s characteristic angular hands known as “Snowflake” that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. The result of a subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking, the Black Bay line is far from offering identical rereleases of classics. Resolutely anchored in the present, it brings together close to seven decades of TUDOR divers’ watches. Whilst it is neo-vintage in style, its manufacturing techniques and its robustness, reliability, durability and precision, as well as the quality of its finishing, are above current industry standards.

The Tudor Divers’ Watch

The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. Waterproof up to 100 metres (330 ft), it is the firstborn in a long line of “divers”. Affordable, robust, reliable and precise, it is representative of the philosophy of a tool-watch of the brand. The seven decades following the introduction of reference 7922 have witnessed the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch, gaining wide acclaim from professionals in the field, including some of the largest navies in the world, in the process.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight "Navy Blue"

The Tudor Guarantee

Since its creation by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and in line with his vision of the ideal product, TUDOR has always strived to make the most robust, durable, reliable and precise watch possible. Bolstered by this experience, and confident in the superior quality of its watches, TUDOR is now offering a five-year guarantee on all its products sold after January 1st 2020. This guarantee does not require the watch to be registered, or any maintenance checks, and is transferable. In addition, all TUDOR products bought between July 1st 2018 and December 31st 2019 will benefit from an 18-month extension to their guarantee, that is to say, a total of three and a half years. TUDOR also recommends that its watches be serviced approximately every 10 years depending on the model and real-life usage.

About Tudor

TUDOR is an award-winning Swiss watch brand, offering watches with refined aesthetics, proven reliability and unique value for money. The origins of TUDOR date back to 1926, when “The Tudor” was first registered as a brand on behalf of the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf. He created the Montres TUDOR SA Company in 1946 to offer watches with the quality and dependability of a Rolex, at a more affordable price point. Because of their robustness and affordability, throughout their history TUDOR watches have been chosen by the boldest adventurers on land, underwater and on ice. Today, the TUDOR collection includes emblematic models such as Black Bay, Pelagos or 1926. Since 2015, TUDOR has also offered mechanical Manufacture movements with multiple functions and superior performance.

Further reading

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