Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon

Angus Davies reviews the Perrelet Black & Gold Tourbillon. Limited to only 20 pieces, this timepiece occupies the upper echelons of the Perrelet range.

This detailed review of the Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon includes live images and specification details.

Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon

Swiss brand Perrelet revealed their Turbine model a few years ago featuring an unusual double rotor. The model has proved to be a commercial success and is now a valued member of the current product range.

One rotor provides the convenience of self-winding the mainspring, typical of automatic timepieces, whilst a second rotor, positioned above the dial, delivers an innovative design feature common to all Turbine models.

The Turbine watches incorporate blades which revolve at various speeds, depending on the inertia of the wearer’s wrist at that particular snapshot in time. The result is a game of horological peekaboo, where the gap between the blades allows the lower dial to be momentarily seen.

In recent years, we have seen Perrelet employ different colours and, in some instances, bright patterns, providing a unique spectacle for the delectation of the wearer.

The rotor to the front of the watch is not functional, in the sense that it does not deliver any power to the spring barrel, however, it has adds value by creating an innovative and alluring aesthetic appearance. Here on ESCAPEMENT we have reviewed both the Perrelet Turbine 1047/2 and the Perrelet Turbine Diver.

Now Perrelet has eschewed the turbine in favour of a tourbillon, or “whirlwind”, on this latest limited edition model, the Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon.

The dial 

The substantial case diameter of 50 mm results in a large dial canvas on which to display the functions presented.

Black and gold are sympathetically blended on the dial, creating a pleasing contrast. This successful colour scheme is repeated on the case and strap ensemble.

The hours and minutes are located on a subdial, off-centre, adjacent 6 o’clock. Gold dauphine shaped hands convey hours and minutes with a traditional air. A minute rail frames the perfectly circular subdial. The hour batons eccentrically frame the subdial, with those hour batons between 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock being larger than those occupying the southern aspect of the dial.

In the upper area of the dial, the tourbillon cage sits resplendently. Framing the tourbillon is an exquisite lattice work detail to the cage, which is further repeated on the neighbouring escape wheel. A short arrow tipped hand attached to the perimeter of the cage interfaces with a chapter ring to impart seconds. Visible demarcation is provided by a rose gold circlet surrounding the tourbillon.

Beautiful balance is conferred by the two elements of the hour and minute display and the tourbillon sitting opposite each other.

Rose gold tube-like batons provide a means of identifying the even hours on the dial as well as adding extra visual interest.

Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon

The case

As previously stated, this watch is large and as such imparts a very masculine persona. However, the subtle character of the crown, discreetly hugging the caseband, ensures it does not gouge or chafe the skin. Moroever, with its unobtrusive design the introverted profile of the crown makes the timepiece appear smaller than it actually is.

Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon

Rose gold features on the bezel and caseback, magnificently contrasting with the black DLC coated steel of the caseband and black rubber strap.

Perrelet have featured an exhibition caseback on this model allowing enquiring eyes to survey the automatic movement within.

The movement

Working in collaboration with its sister company MHVJ, Perrelet developed the in-house self-winding P-311 tourbillon movement. The outcome, as I discovered at Baselworld earlier this year, is very pleasing.

Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon

The movement is enhanced with Côtes de Genève motif, blued screws and an oscillating weight featuring the aforementioned lattice-like motif.

Conclusion

As I write this review I am aware that in all probability, some, if not all, of the 20 limited edition pieces may well have been sold. However, as I feverishly charged around the various exhibition halls of Baselworld, I recorded to my note book those models I wanted to review. It has taken time to work through my long to-do list and there still remains many models I still feel a compunction to write about. Nevertheless, to fail in discussing this watch would have been a glaring omission.

The Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon looked stunning in its very impressive presentation case and even better once placed upon my wrist. With the exception of the hour and minute hands, every detail appears contemporary. This is not to say the traditional dauphine shaped hands do not harmoniously blend, quite the contrary. The design of the watch is very resolved, but modernity is definitely the persona of this watch.

Some purchasers may be dissuaded from purchase by the sheer scale of this watch, but, I don’t think this should unduly concern Perrelet, as I anticipate demand will outstrip supply with many men appreciating the bold statement made by the Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon.

Technical Specification

  • Model: Perrelet Black and Gold Tourbillon
  • Ref: A3035/1
  • Case: 18-carat rose gold and black DLC coated steel; diameter 50.00 mm; height 13.88 mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; seconds displayed upon tourbillon.
  • Movement: P-311 tourbillon movement, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); power reserve 65 hours
  • Bracelet: Black rubber strap presented on stainless steel pin buckle with DLC-coating.
  • Limited edition: 20 pieces

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