Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
The Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is endowed with the Genevan firm’s manufacture-made Calibre CH 29-535 PS Q, a chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar. It is presented in a notably elegant yellow gold case and will no doubt attract legions of well heeled watch aficionados.
Like many admirers of Patek Philippe, I was saddened when I heard that it would not be releasing any new models for 2020. Thankfully, the esteemed brand has had a change of heart and released three Grand Complications, including the Ref. 5270J-001, the Ref. 5303R-001, and lastly, the Ref. 5370P-011.
In this instance, I have chosen to focus upon the Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. The pairing of a chronograph and a perpetual calendar is not for the faint-hearted. However, the Genevan marque is one of only a few companies capable of crafting such mechanically complex watches.
Personally, the first time I was captivated by a Patek Philippe Chronograph Perpetual Calendar was a number of years ago when I read an article in the brand’s magazine about the Ref. 5970. This model was made between 2004 and 2009 and has since acquired a cult status, reflected in eye-watering, ever-rising resale values. At the heart of this watch was an ébauches by Nouvelle Lèmania. This ébauches was subsequently enhanced by expert hands in Patek Philippe’s workshops. It was not unusual for the finest practitioners of haute horlogerie to procure ébauches from third parties. Indeed, watchmaking’s revered triumvirate of brands, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin have all sourced ébauches from specialist companies in the past.
In 2018, Patek Philippe unveiled the Ref. 5270 endowed with the Calibre CH 29-535 PS Q. This hand-wound movement was released seven years earlier in 2011. It was the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar entirely crafted by Patek Philippe.
Previous versions of the Ref. 5270 have been housed in platinum and rose gold. The new Patek Philippe Ref. 5270J-001 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is presented in a yellow gold case, measuring 41mm in diameter, it features a silvery opaline dial and is worn on a matte chocolate brown hand-stitched strap.
The brand’s press release (July 2020)
As the heir of Patek Philippe’s legendary 1941 classic, the Ref. 5270 chronograph with a perpetual calendar has been available since 2018 in a platinum version with an opaline gilt dial and a rose-gold version with a gold “goutte”-style bracelet. Now, the manufacture is enriching its current collection with a new interpretation of this grand complication that debuts in a yellow-gold case. It is an elegant outfit for this timeless watch that combines a concave bezel with slightly flared strap lugs.
The silvery opaline dial with applied hour markers and leaf-shaped hands in yellow gold is superbly legible. The displays of the perpetual calendar are tastefully balanced, with an analogue date at 6 o’clock, a double aperture for the day and month at 12 o’clock, as well as two round apertures for the day/night indicator and the leap year cycle, not to mention the moon-phase aperture. Sand-blasted hands are assigned to the chronograph functions. The tachymeter scale delivers speed readings with the chronograph hand.
The calibre CH 29-535 PS Q is the first chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar developed and crafted entirely by Patek Philippe. Its traditional architecture (horizontal clutch, column wheel, manual winder) is complemented with six patented innovations and an extremely thin calendar mechanism (182 parts; height 1.65 mm). The movement is revealed by the sapphire-crystal case back. The watch is delivered with an interchangeable solid back in yellow gold.
The new Ref. 5270J-001 is worn on a hand-stitched matte chocolate brown alligator strap with large square scales and a yellow-gold fold-over clasp. It joins the previous collection with the platinum and rose-gold versions.