Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina 44mm (PAM01116)
The Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina looks reassuringly familiar and will inevitably win the hearts of the so-called Paneristi. However, this model is also über-luxurious, made from a modified form of platinum, far removed from the brand’s functional military watches of yesteryear.
This morning, the ‘gold spot price’ in the UK is £42.48 per gram (as at 11.2.2021). One-hundred per cent pure gold is stamped ’24-carat’ and is a commodity. The widespread presumption has always been that gold is gold and certainly this was the case in the past, however, several watch brands are now modifying this precious metal.
The gold widely used in the watch industry is 18-carat or 75% pure. The composition of the remaining 25% is increasingly being altered in order to confer additional user benefits and, from a marketing perspective, provide a means of differentiating the modified material from ‘regular’ gold.
In some instances, this advanced metallurgy makes the precious metal less susceptible to scratching. For example, Richemont International SA (parent company of IWC, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai and many other brands) has registered the trademark ‘Armour Gold’, an unusual new variant of 5N gold. ‘The material is produced using a sophisticated process, during which the microstructure of the alloy is transformed.’ As a result, the material is significantly harder and more wear-resistant than conventional 5N gold.
Panerai, as stated earlier, a subsidiary of Richemont International SA, has conceived its own version of gold, ‘Goldtech’. Again, the modified material is 75% pure and is combined with 24% copper, imbuing the precious metal with a distinct red hue, as well as 0.4% platinum. The composition of Goldtech endows the metal with a ‘unique tone and an extreme degree of mechanical and oxidation resistance.’
The Swiss-Italian firm, has, once again, revisited a ‘regular’ precious metal and altered its composition for the betterment of its products. In this instance, Panerai has focussed its gaze upon the ultimate noble metal, platinum. The aptly named Platinumtech is ‘harder than conventional platinum with enhanced physical properties. The precious metal was selected to give the model greater resistance, though it is considerably more difficult to work and polish.’
In the past, Panerai supplied the Royal Italian with optical instruments as well as divers’ watches. Its roots were based in making robust, functional objects. Today, Panerai watches remain robust and functional, but also conspicuously luxurious. Indeed, in recent years, it has been prolific crafting a myriad of new watches, some encased in high-tech materials, including Goldtech and Platinumtech.
The new Panerai Platinumtech Luminor Marina is housed in a 44mm case and sports an olive green dial adorned with a sunray motif. An automatic movement, the Calibre P.9010, sits at the heart of the watch. This movement, ‘designed and developed entirely by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel’ is equipped with two barrels, delivering a prodigious power-reserve of 3 days.
The sandwich dial construction, the ‘Safety Lock’ crown protection device and the Radiomir 1940 case are instantly recognisable as Panerai design elements, sating the desires of the Paneristi. However, where this model differs from the brand’s functional watches of yesteryear is that it features an exhibition caseback affording views of the beautifully appointed Calibre P.9010. A ’70 Years Warranty’ logo has been applied to the dorsal pane of sapphire crystal using a metallisation process, fanfaring the extraordinary warranty terms which accompany this timepiece.
Limited to 70 pieces
Price £34,000 (RRP as at 10.2.2021)
The brand’s press release (February 2021)
With its craftsmanship and experimental proprietary technologies Panerai enhances the essential qualities of its materials. In the wake of the 70th anniversary of the Luminor collection, named for the luminescent substance first patented in middle of the last century and an enduring signature of the brand, Panerai once again celebrates its iconic collection with a precious interpretation: the Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina (PAM01116), guaranteed for 70 years *.
A special edition with a singular identity, Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina is available exclusively at Panerai boutiques globally and produced in a limited edition of only 70 pieces. During its exceptional warranty term of 70 years the brand will provide customers with services to keep the watch in perfect functioning free of charge. On the back of the watch there is the “70 Years Warranty” logo applied through a metallization process.
Identifiable by its case and dial layout, Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina stands out in the Luminor Marina collection thanks to the noble metal that endows it with toughness: Platinumtech. An alloy reformulated and perfected by the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee, it is harder than conventional platinum with enhanced physical properties. The precious metal was selected to give the model greater resistance, though it is considerably more difficult to work and polish.
The delicate finishing of the Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina case requires, not surprisingly, a meticulous and highly specialized manual polishing process.
Masterful aesthetics have been matched by refined, high-performance mechanics furnished by the self-winding Caliber P.9010, which has a three-day power reserve and is designed and developed entirely by the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. The movement features a rapid adjustment system that can move the hour hand forward or backward in increments of one hour, independent of the minute hand.
Water-resistant to 5 bar (approximately 50 meters deep), the Platinumtech™ Luminor Marina features an alligator leather strap in dark brown with ecru stitching and a brushed Platinumtech trapezoidal pin buckle. A second strap, chosen according to the customer’s request at the time of purchase is also included, along with a screwdriver for changing and removing the Platinumtech trapezoidal buckle and a black lacquered wooden box with the luminescent Luminor Marina logo on the lid.
* For further details on the warranty, please refer to the dedicated watch’s warranty