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Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 is a new divers’ watch equipped with the brand’s latest in-house movement, the Calibre 400. Two barrels collaborate to deliver a 5-day power reserve, the rotor has been designed to enhance reliability and the presence of silicium components mitigates the risk of magnetic influence on the escapement. The brand state servicing is only required every 10 years. Lastly, the Swiss marque provides peace of mind, courtesy of an impressive 10-year warranty.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

Most watch brands procure movements from specialist companies such as Chronode, Concepto, ETA, La Joux-Perret, Sellita, Soprod, Vaucher et al. The cost of developing and making a movement is huge and requires much know-how, barriers which prevent many watch brands taking the in-house route.

Historically, Oris has sourced movements from ETA or Sellita, however, in 2014, the brand from Hölstein released the in-house Calibre 110. This movement is hand-wound and boasts a prodigious power reserve of 10 days courtesy of one barrel. Released to mark the firm’s 110 year anniversary, it was the company’s first in-house movement for 35 years.

Now the Swiss marque has unveiled a new movement, the Calibre 400. This movement is equipped with two barrels, delivering 5 days of autonomous operation. The watch is equipped with a unidirectional oscillating weight which, according to the brand, is simpler than a bi-directional rotor and thereby less likely to malfunction.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

Oris has equipped its new movement with a silicium escape wheel and pallet lever. This glass-like material is not liable to corrosion and is temperature stable, friction-free and anti-magnetic. All of these characteristics are highly beneficial in watchmaking. Magnetic fields can adversely affect the escapement, regulating organ and other components, impairing precision or even damaging the movement.

Another benefit of using silicium (silicon) is that its friction-free nature obviates the need for lubricants, allowing the Swiss brand to extend service intervals to 10 years. Models equipped with the new Calibre 400 also come with a 10-year warranty.

The first recipient of the new Calibre 400 is the tried and trusted Oris Aquis Date. This particular version, the aptly named Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 is endowed with a blue dial and matching bezel as well an exhibition caseback. It is offered on a choice of steel bracelet or rubber strap.

The brand’s press release

Oris’s current collection is full of high-performance, fit-for-purpose mechanical watches. But when it came to choosing which model should carry our groundbreaking new Calibre 400, there was only one candidate. The Oris Aquis Date.

Around the world, the Aquis is recognised as an icon of contemporary diver’s watch design. Strong, reliable, versatile and equipped with a long list of functions, it is chosen by men and women from all walks of life who love watches.

The new Aquis Date, powered by Calibre 400, has a number of differences to the standard model. The first clue to what lies beneath are the words ‘5 days’ written on the gradient blue dial. The date window is also larger and the date disc is black, rather than white. On the reverse, the sapphire case back is the largest we’ve ever installed in an Aquis Date, so the view into the movement is as open as it can be.

At the same time, the watch is still water-resistant to 30 bar (300 metres), has a uni-directional rotating bezel with a scratchproof ceramic insert for safely timing dives, and SuperLumiNova® hands and indices.

It’s also equipped with Oris’s newest patented development, the Quick Strap Change system, engineered so a bracelet or strap can be released simply by lifting a flap. No tools required. No jeweller required.

In short, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 sets the new standard in diver’s watches.

The Oris calibre 400

What should a mechanical watch movement do? How could it do it better? And for more people? How can we produce the best possible watch at the best possible price?

Oris has been asking these questions for generations, since the company was founded in 1904. Today, we’re proud to announce a new in-house automatic movement that celebrates the joy of mechanics. It’s called Calibre 400.

Calibre 400 is an entirely new movement, independently conceived by Oris, and sets the new standard for automatic mechanical movements. It has a five-day power reserve (120 hours), is highly resistant to magnetism, and comes with 10-year recommended service intervals and a 10-year warranty.

Moreover, because it’s an Oris calibre, every detail has been scrutinised to ensure the highest possible quality at the best possible price. That has always been the Oris movement creation philosophy.

Oris Calibre 400 was conceived five years ago. The ambition, which was born years before, was to produce not just a highly accurate automatic movement, but one that would serve today’s world citizen.

Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400

Modern life is more demanding of a mechanical watch than it was. We’re now surrounded by magnetic fields that can have an adverse effect on a watch movement – magnets are in computers, phone cases, air bags… and because of advances in manufacturing, it’s expected that a mechanical watch will perform better and for longer than ever before.

Many of us now own more than one watch. Sometimes we might wear a smartwatch. Perhaps we’ll go days when we don’t wear a watch at all. We also expect a luxury watch to last, partly because it’s a considered purchase, but also because we’re more conscious of the impact our choices have on our planet. A contemporary calibre should accommodate the way we live and the world we live in.

Having agreed on the philosophy behind the movement, we then faced the challenge of delivering it. ‘The challenge creating a mechanical movement from scratch is not just to come up with a list of functions and then devise a solution to them,’ says Beat Fischli, Oris’s Chief Operating Officer, who created Calibre 400 with his team. ‘The real challenge is to produce a movement that will perform consistently and reliably for as long as the intervals you’re going to recommend between servicing.’

Beat and his team engineered the movement from the ground up. ‘The solution was to develop a highly efficient movement that would be much more resistant to wear and tear,’ says Beat. ‘We focused on reducing torque in the mainspring – where power is stored – to help conserve power and put less pressure on moving parts. We also introduced a new wheel design into the gear train that delivers far greater efficiency. Calibre 400 retains 85 per cent of the energy transferred from the mainspring, compared to a norm of around 70 per cent.

‘We also knew from experience that most of the problems in automatic movements come from the way they’re wound,’ he continues.

‘Typically, the rotating mass, or rotor, sits on a ball bearing and winds in both directions. Instead, we devised a much more reliable system based on the slide bearing concept that only winds in one direction. It’s much less complex and reduces wear and tear.’

That rotor feeds mainsprings in twin barrels that store Calibre 400’s huge five-day power reserve. ‘Power reserves have improved in modern mechanical watchmaking,’ says Beat. ‘Three days has become normal – but we wanted to do better.’

Beat and his team also developed an entirely new escapement. They selected silicon for the anchor and escape wheel, and other non- ferrous materials for the axes that hold the balance wheel, escape wheel and anchor in place. Around a further 30 parts are made of non-ferrous materials or non-magnetic alloys so that the impact of magnetic fields on the accuracy of Calibre 400 is reduced by more than 90 per cent compared to standard Swiss Made mechanical movements.

‘Calibre 400 is the new standard; the Oris standard,’ says Rolf Studer, Oris’s Co-CEO. ‘It’s an intelligent concept, it has a smart choice of materials that gives it its anti-magnetic properties, and the engineering solutions deliver the reliability that mean we can offer a 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. There’s nothing else like it.’

Being an Oris concept, Calibre 400 is made by Oris using a network of Switzerland’s finest suppliers who deliver extremely high quality using state-of-the-art industrial techniques. Calibre 400 is an Oris movement for today’s world citizen.

‘This is the Oris way of doing things,’ says Rolf. ‘We think a bit harder and come up with sober solutions that mean we can make a watch for people in love with watches, and not only for the privileged few. Calibre 400 isn’t just another mechanical watch movement – it’s a movement that gives answers to the questions of our time. More than that, it serves our customers.’

Power play

Oris’s current collection is full of high-performance, fit-for-purpose mechanical watches. But when it came to choosing which model should carry our groundbreaking new Calibre 400, there was only one candidate. The Oris Aquis Date.

Around the world, the Aquis is recognised as an icon of contemporary diver’s watch design. Strong, reliable, versatile and equipped with a long list of functions, it is chosen by men and women from all walks of life who love watches.

The new Aquis Date, powered by Calibre 400, has a number of differences to the standard model. The first clue to what lies beneath are the words ‘5 days’ written on the gradient blue dial. The date window is also larger and the date disc is black, rather than white. On the reverse, the sapphire case back is the largest we’ve ever installed in an Aquis Date, so the view into the movement is as open as it can be.

At the same time, the watch is still water-resistant to 30 bar (300 metres), has a uni-directional rotating bezel with a scratchproof ceramic insert for safely timing dives, and SuperLumiNova® hands and indicies.

It’s also equipped with Oris’s newest patented development, the Quick Strap Change system, engineered so a bracelet or strap can be released simply by lifting a flap. No tools required. No jeweller required.

In short, the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 sets the new standard in diver’s watches.

Further reading

https://www.oris.ch/

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