NOMOS Glashutte Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39
Hands-On: Angus Davies gets hands-on with the NOMOS Glashutte Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39
In the current era of changing jobs every couple of years it may seem alien to work for one employer for 25 years continuously, but, in the past, many individuals did just that. In my native England, it was common practice to award a member of staff with a gold watch in recognition of long service.
Gold, by virtue of its scarcity, commands a high price. A watch made of this noble metal is precious and receiving a gold watch represents a significant moment in one’s life. It is for this reason that the gifting a gold watch to a long standing employee was such a significant gesture.
However, NOMOS Glashütte recently redefined the notion of a gold watch being expensive. The newly launched, NOMOS Glashutte Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39 is beautifully crafted in 18-carat rose gold but costs the same as many watches made of stainless steel. Suddenly, NOMOS Glashütte has put the prospect of owning a gold watch within the grasp of many more people and, to this end, I felt compelled to appraise this timepiece.
The hour and minute hands share much in common with the stainless steel version of the Metro, save for the fact that they are gold-plated. The hour and minute hands are slender but, they narrow still further to a needle like point. These supremely slender tips articulate the time with crystal-clear enunciation.
The dial is white and silver-plated. Each hour is marked with a grey dot, while quarter hours are denoted with a larger dot, presented in a paler shade of grey. The chosen details are highly legible and simple to decipher.
Encircling the dial is a minute track. Each minute is marked, once again, with a neat grey dot. Every 5 minutes, the dial is marked with Arabic numerals.
Positioned between 6 o’clock and the fulcrum of the dial is a small seconds display. A lithe golden seconds hand proclaims the running seconds. Elongated printed batons denote each 5-second integer.
The dial repeatedly employs slender forms to exquisite effect. Typical of Bauhaus design, form follows function with this watch. The resultant outcome is a dial which delivers excellent lucidity and, in so doing, grants an elegant mien.
To avoid any misunderstandings, the case is made of solid 18-carat gold and should not be confused with cheaper watches made of gold-plated steel. The NOMOS Glashutte Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39 is the genuine article.
The case measures 38.5mm in diameter, albeit it appears larger when worn. The space between the lugs is narrow, measuring 19mm, imbuing the watch with a delightfully delicate appearance. However, rest asssured, the watch sits steadfastly upon the wrist.
The case-back arcs, causing the watch to ergonomically nuzzle the wrist with cosseting aplomb. This is a very comfortable watch to wear. The brown leather strap coalesces wonderfully with the warm, autumnal shades of the case, augmenting the overall visual appeal.
A sapphire case-back provides sight of the self-winding, DUW 3001 movement within. This automatic movement is beautifully appointed with Glashütte ribbing on the bi-directional rotor and the three-quarter plate below.
The main-plate is decorated with perlage and a plethora of thermally blued screws populate the movement.
One of the many virtues of the DUW 3001 is the fitment of a three-quarter plate. This feature accords greater stability than a series of bridges. Moreover, NOMOS equip the DUW 3001 with a balance bridge which affixes to the main-plate at two points, again enhancing stability.
Often companies mention manufacture movements but few make their own assortiment. NOMOS is different. The brand from Glashütte makes its own escapement or ‘Swing system’.
The movement is slender, measuring only 3.2mm in height. This shallow depth is reflected in the total case height of 8.35mm.
The balance has a frequency of 21,600 VpH (3Hz) and the movement contains 27 rubies. The power reserve is 43 hours.
NOMOS has an amazing capacity to make the proclamation of time simple to understand. Each dial detail is carefully considered with no details appearing superfluous. Every dot and each numeral has been evaluated with absolute attention. Form has followed function and readability has led to a simple sweet-tasting dial, brimming with character.
The case has a delightful delicacy to its form. This does not mean it is fragile, but rather it skilfully sidesteps the clumpy, clumsy and bulbous. Every line is endearingly minimalistic and beautifully executed. The slender movement facilitates a slender case. The arcing profile of the case-back accords a sublime union with the wrist.
Despite the affordability of NOMOS watches, the movements never eschew flawless finishing. The DUW 3001 is a paragon of fine watchmaking and, based on its modest price, represents the finest quality for this sum.
Now, NOMOS Glashütte has redefined the notion of a gold watch. No longer is this type of timepiece the preserve of plutocrats or long serving employees. This is an accessible watch, courtesy of its aggressive pricing, making it available to a large cross section of society.
- Model: NOMOS Glashütte Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 38.5mm; height 8.35mm; sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds.
- Movement: DUW 3001, Self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz), 27 jewels; power reserve 43 hours
- Strap: Brown leather strap with gold pin buckle.
- Price: £7,000 (RRP as at 8.1.2018)