Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold
The Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold represents something very different from the German brand. It features an 18-carat rose gold case, a case material rarely used by NOMOS, and measures just 33mm in diameter. Steve Ashby takes a look at one of Nomos Glashutte’s most elegant watches to date.
It is not a simple task to design a watch that has a subtle and minimalistic look while simultaneously revealing its maker’s identity with the merest glance. There are only a few watch brands that can accomplish this feat. One such name, and a personal favourite of mine, is Nomos Glashutte.
The independent watch brand is renowned for producing timepieces that are beautiful and simple, powered by in-house movements that offer incredible precision. This latest release, the Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold, upholds this reputation.
The Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold is a new addition to the brand’s ‘Metro’ collection, and the smallest version to date, measuring just 33mm in diameter. The watch is one of only a few gold watches available from Nomos, joining the Neomatik 39 and the über-luxurious Lux and Lambda models.
The Lux models strayed from the brand’s house style, sometimes employing unconventional and vibrant shades. While the design of the Lambda proved more conservative, it still looked very different from its more affordable siblings. Trying something different is not necessarily a bad thing, but it’s fair to say that the above watches were significantly more expensive than most other Nomos models. Indeed, this latter aspect may have pushed the Lambda and Lux beyond the grasp of some of the brand’s fans.
However, the new Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold stays 100 percent on point with the brand’s roots. The aesthetics are unmistakably Nomos – if the logo had been omitted from dial, it would still be obvious which company had produced it.
Setting aside the 18ct Rose Gold case and hands, which are luxury in themselves, the timepiece is supplied on an opulent beige velour leather strap. Situated under a domed sapphire crystal, the dial has been silver plated and exquisitely decorated with understated grey hour markers. Surrounding the dial are purple minute markers, providing a small splash of colour that not only offsets the gold, but also complements the grey tones beautifully.
Similar to other Metro timepieces, the watch has a certain vintage appeal, partly due to its smaller case size and partly thanks to the slim 16mm strap and wire lugs, seldom seen on modern watches. Nomos has fitted quick-change spring bars, allowing the wearer to easily fit alternative straps. Merely sliding a catch to one side releases the strap from the watch head. This is great news for those individuals seeking personal expression.
While the watch’s designer, Mark Braun, admits that the model has a ‘feminine aspect’ there’s no denying that the piece would equally befit the wrist of any gentleman. With a case-depth of only 7.7mm, the watch has zero difficulty in snugly sitting under a shirt sleeve.
Nomos Glashutte is a Manufacture, crafting beautiful in-house movements. The Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold is fitted with the Alpha Caliber, a 17 jewel hand-wound movement. It has a 43 hour power reserve and is beautifully appointed with tempered blued screws, rhodium-plated surfaces and Glashutte Ribbing. With a proliferation of smile-inducing details, it’s no surprise that the movement is proudly shown via an exhibition cashback.
Having worked within the watch industry for several years, I am all too aware that Swiss made timepieces dominate the market. Many would-be buyers won’t even consider buying a watch unless it has the coveted ‘Swiss Made’ wording at the bottom of the dial. However, the name Nomos Glashutte should provide sufficient reason to look beyond the Swiss valleys and consider a glorious watch, crafted in Saxony.
Of the watches unveiled this year, this is one of my favourites, despite the fact I would normally select a timepiece with a slightly larger case. There is no occasion where this watch would prove unsuitable, be it discreetly sitting under the cuff of a shirt or affixed to the wrist while luxuriating on the beach. It is the perfect combination of a casual daily wear watch and a luxury dress accessory – with an RRP of £5,600, it’s an affordable luxury too.
- Model: Nomos Glashutte Metro 33 Rose Gold
- Reference: 1170
- Case: 18-carat Rose Gold; diameter 33mm; height 7.7mm; water resistance 3ATM (30 metres) sapphire crystals to the front and back
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds
- Movement: Calibre Alpha; hand-wound movement; 17 jewels; power reserve 43 hours approximately
- Strap: Beige velour leather strap paired with an 18-carat pin buckle
- Price: £5,600 (RRP as at 22.9.2019)
The press sample was kindly provided by https://www.jurawatches.co.uk