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NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold

German brand, NOMOS Glashütte, revealed two new models at SalonQP 2013, both presented in gold. Angus Davies reviews the NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold and discusses the Saxony based brand’s foray into a new market segment.

NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold

Image – Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte

Predictability is an occupational hazard which can occasionally mar the enjoyment of reporting on watches. A brand sometimes makes a great fanfare, employing elaborate methods to capture your interest only to present a new watch which appears to resemble every other watch it has offered before. The company’s representatives grandiosely effuse about some change to the dial or case that is so insignificant it is barely discernible.

Thankfully, no such allegations could be directed towards NOMOS Glashütte when it revealed two new models, the Lambda and the Lux, at SalonQP 2013. These models spell a new direction for the German based watch brand and distinguish themselves as worthy of discussion by virtue of their handsome lines.

Image – Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte

I have decided to focus on the Lambda Roségold model, which is the least expensive variant of the Lambda, and my favourite, from the new models solely available in noble metals.

The dial

The white silver dial has a clean appearance, a trait in common with other NOMOS Glashütte watches. It personifies innocence with an absence of excessive adornment which would otherwise corrupt its angelic face.

NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold

Image – Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte

Hours and minutes are conveyed with sylphlike gold plated hands. Their slender proportions are particularly noticeable, but they articulately express time with good legibility.

Subsidiary seconds are located above 6 o’clock. Whilst I like the minimalist style of this display, with the succinct strokes denoting each 5-second integer, I would have preferred the subdial to be located slightly lower on the dial.

An aspect I do particularly appreciate is the power-reserve indication. It shows the energy, stored within the twin barrels, on an arc-like display beneath noon. When the watch is fully wound it has a power-reserve of 84 hours. As the hand-wound movement expends energy, the slender hand moves anti-clockwise providing a contrast to the clockwise motion of the other hands featured on the dial.

The chapter ring is detailed with a combination of small dots and simple strokes every 5-minute integer. They enhance ease of read off and reaffirm the understated temperament of this handsome watch.

The case

Measuring 42 mm in diameter, this is one of the larger NOMOS Glashütte watches available for sale. However, it does not feel outré or showy. Moreover, with a relatively restrained height of 8.9 mm, the watch has a graceful aura.

NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold

Image – Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte

The lugs are very slender. They extend significantly from the caseband and, although I did wonder how it would sit on my arm, I am pleased to report I found the watch very comfortable to wear.

A key aspect of this watch is the manufacture movement housed inside the case. It was, therefore, a prudent decision, on the part of NOMOS Glashütte, to fit a sapphire case back and allow wearers to see the added value housed within.

NOMOS Glashütte has always promoted its use of Horween Genuine Shell Corodovan leather straps from Chicago. They have a delightfully pleasing tactility. However, the strap fitted to the NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold felt particularly noteworthy, with a padded form enhancing the perception of quality.

The movement

Part of the unique selling proposition of NOMOS Glashütte is the manufacture movements inhabiting the company’s watches. Based in Saxony it has created some wonderful calibres, featuring many details synonymous with watchmaking from this region. In this instance though, the brand has clearly sought to move upmarket with the DUW 1001 hand-wound movement.

NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold

Image – Copyright: NOMOS Glashütte

Examining the movement, the first aspect to appeal to traditionalists is the three-quarter plate. Unlike some movements from the region, which are adorned with straight Glashütte Ribbing, NOMOS has featured “fine sunbeam polishing”. This is executed to a high standard and offers much appeal.

Thermally treated blued screws offer a hardened finish and are superior to chemically blued alternatives.

There is a total complement of 29 jewels of which six are set in gold chatons.

A screwed balance wheel stands testament to the mechanical virtue of this watch and aids the poising of the movement by a competent watchmaker. Furthermore, a swan-neck regulator enhances the specification and facilitates fine regulation of the rate.

A. Lange & Söhne is well known for featuring an engraved balance cock in its timepieces. NOMOS has chosen to also engrave the balance cock within the NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold but, rather than feature a traditional decoration with scrolled pattern, the company has chosen to use words in preference. The hand-engraved text states, “Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt”, meaning “Lovingly produced in Glashütte”. Based on the evidence, I see little reason to disagree.

 Conclusion

NOMOS Glashütte has chosen to demonstrate its significant watchmaking ability by offering a more upscale timepiece in the form of the Lambda Roségold. There are many notable attributes to this latest model.

The styling is elegant, refined and an exemplar of good taste. In particular, I felt the rose gold version imparted a warmth which I found especially appealing.

There are many delightful details evidenced on the DUW 1001 calibre which purists will adore. The gold chatons, swan-neck regulator, screwed-balance wheel, thermally blued screws are just some of the many distinguishing features which set this movement apart from some more commonplace offerings.

NOMOS Glashütte has made an interesting timepiece which provided much to garner my attention on first acquaintance and subsequently elicits much praise from my direction.

A key strength of the other models within the NOMOS Glashütte range is the accessible pricing. However, the price of the NOMOS Glashuette Lambda Rosegold is £11,800 in the UK and this does seem a tad ambitious. Indeed, it may blur the perception of what NOMOS Glashütte stands for. Nevertheless, I applaud the brand for venturing into more luxurious watches and releasing this particular model that is distilled to an elevated standard.

Technical Specification

  • Model: NOMOS Glashütte Lambda Roségold
  • Ref: 930
  • Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 42.00 mm; height 8.90 mm; water-resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and case back.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds; power-reserve indicator.
  • Movement: DUW 1001 caliber, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz); power reserve 84 hours
  • Bracelet: Dark brown hand-stitched Horween strap presented on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.

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