Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve
Angus Davies falls for the softly spoken charms of the Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve, a watch delivered in a refined three-part platinum case.
This detailed review of the Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve includes live images and specification details.
Words imparted with a soft, gentle voice can sometimes prove easier to hear than loud conversation which overwhelms the senses. The same could equally be said of a wristwatch design where restrained, crisp dial detail conveys time with judicious tone, aiding interpretation.
Based on appearances, the Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve articulates time with a calm voice without burdening the wearer with the extraneous. However, beneath the graceful facade of this timepiece and its seemingly simple dial, a high degree of mechanical complexity resides.
The grey dial canvas is tastefully partnered with various white elements according a handsome mien and augmenting legibility. The hours are denoted with white Arabic numerals whose font is stylish but not unduly fussy.
The chapter ring, again depicted in white, interfaces with the elongated tip of the minute hand, allowing the wearer to read off 12-second integers with consummate ease.
Positioned in the lower portion of the dial, a small seconds display proves eminently readable, courtesy of the slender track encircling its form and a lithe small seconds hand. Indeed, slender-tipped hands are a notable aspect of the design language employed by Moritz Grossmann. The hour and minute hands are highly polished and lined with white luminescent material, proving simple to see at all times.
Perhaps the most striking indication to appear on the dial surface is the power-reserve indicator positioned below the brand’s nomenclature. A trapezoidal aperture reveals a red and white bar, denoting the status of the mainspring. When fully wound the indicator is shown in white and as the mainspring becomes depleted of energy the display becomes red.
The 41mm case is presented in platinum and is of three-part construction. The bezel is slender and the lugs arc downwards, mitigating the sense of scale. This is a timepiece which chooses to dwell quietly on the wrist without screaming for attention. It flies in the face of conspicuous consumption, exhibiting decorum with each contour of its refined being.
To adjust the time, the crown is pulled gently and the seconds hack. The crown immediately returns home and is used to set the hands. Pressing the pushpiece below the crown causes the mechanism to return to winding mode and the movement restarts.
The caseback is retained with seven screws and features a widescreen sapphire crystal, providing an amazing view of the hand-wound movement within.
The calibre 100.1 is clearly intended to appeal to purists with high-end finishing much in evidence. A two-thirds plate, formed of untreated German silver greets the eyes and proffers desirable postdated patination.
Hand-engraving is visible on the two-thirds plate, balance cock and escape-wheel bridge. The decoration is beautiful and manifestly demonstrates the adroit skills of the artisans who were party to its execution.
Some movement specification details are typical of watches from this region, such as the broad Glashütte ribbing on the two-thirds plate and the gold chatons. However, there are also flourishes of individual expression in terms of white sapphire jewels and brown-violet pan-head screws.
The screwed balance includes poising weights set in-board, mitigating the disruption to the airflow and hence aiding precision. Indeed, it is the attention to detail with this movement which demonstrates the breathtaking thoroughness of its creation.
I cannot hide my admiration for this watch, it is produced to a high standard with a plethora of refined details which engender a lasting joy.
The face of the watch is pure, simple in character and converses quietly with succinct, precise choice of word. There is no ambiguity, the meaning imparted with every indication is obvious and is intended to be easily comprehended.
Moritz Grossman reaffirms my belief that the most interesting forms of communication are softly spoken and imbued with wisdom.
- Model: Moritz Grossmann BENU Power Reserve
- Ref: 001.C-231-13-1
- Case: Platinum; diameter 41mm; height 11.65mm; sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; power-reserve indicator.
- Movement: calibre 100.1, Hand-wound movement; frequency 18,000 vph (2.5Hz); power reserve 42 hours
- Strap: Brown hand stitched leather strap presented on a folding clasp