Angus Davies reviews the Jaquet Droz Grand Date Ivory Enamel, a watch with a clean dial so pure and pleasing.
Jaquet Droz produce watches with clean, uncluttered lines. This latest model launched at Baselworld 2012 continues their successful mastery of proportion and exquisite taste.
Nothing corrupts this clarity of the watch. Simple in presentation, economically detailed but judiciously refined.
The dial is made of an ivory coloured disc. The Grand Feu enamelling exemplifies the artistry of the timed-served artisans.
The enamelers buile their knowledge over a number of years. They ascertain which powders to use, the optimum temperature to acquire a specific hue and repeat this process many times to provide dials consistent in appearance.
Jaquet Droz have a wealth of experience in enamelling borne of repeated delivery of delightful dials. They are masters of this craft.
Some dials feature intricate decoration showing serene landscapes or wildlife scenes, but this model eschews adornment. No mascara, rouge or lipstick. This dial has a virgin-like quality, no overt flirtations just an innocent smile at its admiring wearer.
The off-centre hours and minutes, biased to the north, utilise Roman numerals to indicate the time. The hands are red gold and presented in Lancine form. A minute rail neatly outlines the margin of the hours and minutes indication.
Above 6 o’clock two date apertures reside. No additional details to their frames, they reveal the date succinctly.
The case is highly polished red gold. It has a diameter of 43mm. The red gold sits in comfortable contrast with the ivory dial. No garish or gaudy proclamations of new found wealth, just the whispered speech of a modest maiden of unparalleled beauty.
The crown is partially knurled on one flank, nearest the case, but the tapered tip is smooth. On its vertical surface two stars are depicted, the emblem of the atelier from La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The edge of the case is rolled and rounded. It has no sharp lines to confuse the gentle persona.
The watch is fitted with the Jaquet Droz 2653G calibre.
It provides the convenience of self-winding, a godsend for the forgetful.
The movement has a 22-carat white gold rotor. A noble metal reinforcing the inherent value in this high-end timepiece.
Twin barrels harness the energy of the rotor and provide an impressive power reserve of 65 hours.
Some people will try and conform to expected norms with excessive, faux gestures and unseemly guffaws. Some will choose superfluous, superficial adornment when decoration detracts.
However, some ladies can quietly enter a room with grace and elegance. Simply attired, they do not try too hard. Their clothes are well cut, exhibiting timeless taste.
The same is true of the Jaquet Droz Grande Date Ivory Enamel. It does not require the outré ornamentation of gems. Additional complications would corrupt the chaste character of this dignified debutante.
Jaquet Droz have produced a statuesque timepiece of unsullied virtue. I wish to offer my hand in marriage and walk with this beauty on my arm.
Model: Jaquet Droz Grand Date Ivory Enamel
Case: 18-carat red gold; diameter 43.00 mm; height 11.80 mm ; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and rear.
Functions: Hours; minuntes; date.
Movement: Jaquet Droz 2653G; self-winding; Frequency 28,800 vph; 35 jewels; Power reserve 65 hours.
Strap: Rolled-edge hand made black alligator leather strap.