GoS Sarek Trollius
The GoS Sarek Trollius features elaborate dial patterns, formed of Damascus steel and is inspired by the Trollius Europaeus, a yellow wild flower typically found in the Sarek National Park in northern Sweden. Carl Eady explores this unique timepiece, examining its composition in minute detail.
Throughout history, architects and designers in all cultures have drawn upon the power of nature to inspire some of their greatest works. Ancient Egyptian temples were built with columns designed to emulate papyrus and were often decorated with lotus flower motifs. Gaudi’s ‘Sagrada Familia’ in Barcelona houses a stone forest of palm trees, whilst in more recent times, Beijing hosted their Olympics in a stadium mimicking a bird’s nest.
Increasingly in the world of horology, watch brands are turning to the natural world in a bid to stand out from their competitors. One such brand is GoS watches from Sweden. GoS is a partnership between the master bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and master watchmaker Patrik Sjögren. The pair met in 2007 and have a shared passion for Scandinavian nature and heritage. Thanks to Gustafsson’s skill at the forge, GoS has become synonymous with the use of Damascus steel and rich flowing dial patterns. Such are the properties of Damascus steel, no two patterns are ever the same and collectors of Damascus dialled GoS watches can be safe in the knowledge they will always own a ‘piece unique’.
In 2016, GoS released its ‘Sarek’ collection, named after the National Park in the north of Sweden. More recently, the pair enlisted friend and fellow Swedish knifemaker and engraver, Anders Hedlund. Between them, they delved even further into Sarek’s rich flora creating the latest iteration of the collection, the GoS Sarek Trollius. Hedlund’s skills have brought further refinement to an already accomplished collection and visitors to the recent Watchmakers Club event in London were able to get ‘hands on’ with this latest timepiece and view the intricate craftsmanship at close quarters.
The 43mm stainless steel case infuses the watch with a dose of masculinity, despite its evidently decorative attributes. It carries deep and exquisite engraving which could only be produced by a highly experienced and talented artisan such as Hedlund. Illustrating the petals of the ‘Trollius Europaeus’, a bright yellow flower abundant in Sarek National Park, the perpetual pattern flows around the bezel, into the curved and chamfered lugs and continues on the reverse side. The monikers of Gustafsson and Sjögren’s are deeply engraved on the back, as is the qualifier ‘Unique Piece 1/1’, reflecting the individuality of each watch in this series.
A technique often seen in luxury knife making is ‘pinning’. Patrik Sjögren mastered this technique in order to enrich the case with this artisanal decoration. With finishing inspired by Viking bracelets, the case side has several elliptic ‘flute’ recesses, each one sporting a central handmade 24k gold pin, designed to mimic the buds of the Trollius flower. The effect is breathtaking as the vibrant yellow gold buds appear to emerge from the deep satin steel case.
In keeping with the rest of the Sarek collection, the Trollius incorporates the latest GoS crown. Steeped in tradition, the design is such that it reflects the hilt of a Viking sword. At 7mm, it is well-proportioned and easy to wind and is finished in a high polish with contrasting deep satinised grooves. The neck of the crown is deeply recessed into the case and is therefore more resilient to side impact, making it ideal for those GoS’ clients keen on adventurous pursuits.
Underneath the domed sapphire crystal, the Damascus steel dial is unquestionably one of the model’s key features. Created by welding and forging together many layers of different steel types, the dials of the Sarek collection are, by nature of their production, always unique. Each of these stunning dials takes over forty hours to produce and the effect is spectacular. The ‘wildflower’ pattern was invented by Gustafsson. It is made by first producing a steel rod with 192 parallel layers and then subsequently folding it. Somehow he ensures each layer remains discrete. The result is a perfect floral-patterned face, ideally suited for the Trollius.
GoS has selected a traditional ‘untempered’ steel grey finish, providing a stunning canvas to the dial estate. All the dial elements are hand polished and bevelled. The gold-plated hands have a high gloss polish and are dauphine-shaped. Furthermore, the hands feature a central ridge, adding a playful contrast in certain light conditions. Echoing Viking arrow and spear heads, the hands reach out to the gold chapter ring which incorporates further recessed gold pins to denote the hours. The logo proudly sits at the 12 o’clock position and to complement the model’s design, the GoS letters are also gold plated.
A highly reliable Soprod A10 movement powers the GoS Sarek Trollius, operating at a frequency of 4Hz. Through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, the exceptional decorative talents of the team can further be admired. It is the first time that a GoS watch has featured engraved movement parts and the effect is stunning.
The central rotor has a dark satinised finish and has been shaped to mimic a Viking ‘triskele’ symbol. Hedlund enhances this dramatic shape by adding deep engraved swirls and a Trollius petal pattern. The counterweight sports Johan Gustafsson´s hand-forged Damascus steel and is presented in a traditional ladder woodgrain Damascus finish, upholding the ‘natural world’ theme.
To secure this precious piece, GoS has opted for a tapered black leather strap. Longstanding GoS fans can alternatively opt for the sumptuous feel of a traditional hand-stitched premium moose (elk) leather, often favoured by the brand. Both straps have their merits and owners of either choice have the comfort of knowing that a stainless steel Swiss made deployant buckle will safely secure their cherished watch.
GoS is a brand extremely passionate about its Swedish heritage and the natural wonders of this beautiful country. In the latest iteration of this collection, Sjögren and Gustafsson have made an inspired choice entrusting Anders Hedlund with decorating the case and movement. His talents have augmented the Scandinavian allure of the GoS Sarek Trollius, a truly unique and extraordinary timepiece which warrants very close inspection.
- Model: GoS Sarek Trollius
- Case: Stainless steel with intricate engraving by Anders Hedlund; diameter 43mm; height 10.5mm; water resistance 5ATM (50 metres); sapphire crystal to the front and sapphire caseback
- Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds
- Movement: Soprod A10, decoratively modified by GoS and Anders Hedlund; automatic movement; frequency 28,800VpH (4Hz); 25 jewels; approximately 42 hours of power reserve
- Strap: Premium moose (Elk) leather or black tapered leather. Secured with Stainless steel deployant buckle
- Price: £18,500 (RRP as at 2.7.2019)