Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph is a new entry-level tri-compax chronograph from the Swiss brand famed for divers’ watches. Exhibiting a purposeful, slightly utilitarian appearance, this new model is offered in six colours, including some wonderfully exuberant options.

A few weeks ago, I chatted to Jan Edöcs, the CEO of Doxa Watches. During our conversation, he alluded to the firm releasing a new model, quite different from the brand’s existing range of models. Despite several prompts, Jan gave nothing away.

Well now it’s here. The new Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph upholds the brand’s reputation for divers’ models, however, it is endowed with a tri-compax chronograph. The brand already offers a bi-compax chronograph with a vintage Valjoux 7734 movement, however, this latest creation is offered at a significantly lower price point.

Given that divers’ watches and chronographs are two market segments which are incredibly popular, the outlook for this new Doxa model looks positive.

The dial

One characteristic common to many of Doxa’s models is that they have a tendency to be colourful. In 1964, Doxa was the first brand to experiment with orange dials, testing their visibility in Lake Neuchâtel. The results proved impressive and the firm went on to unveil its now-iconic orange dial SUB 300 T at Baselworld 1967.

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

Today, would-be wearers are indulged with a breathtaking choice of colours. While orange may prove useful underwater, many so-called ‘desk-divers’ will be drawn to the colourful shades on offer purely for aesthetic reasons. The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph is offered with a choice of six dial colours, including ebullient shades of yellow and turquoise.

Whereas other Doxa models feature an oversized minute hand, the appearance of the hour and minute hands on the SUB 200 C-Graph share conventional proportions. Each hour is denoted with a rectangular-shaped luminescent baton. A central chronograph seconds hand features a square lollipop, a detail also found on the small seconds hand. The colour of the hands and contrasting luminescent fill are replicated on the indices and the counter hands. Moreover, each dial variant comes with optimally hued dials and indexes.

A 30-minute register sits at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour register is located at 6 o’clock and a small seconds display is positioned at 9 o’clock. The track of each counter is smooth, while the central area is snailed. A minute track frames the dial area and includes ¼-second markings.

The case

Measuring 45mm x 45mm the Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph makes a bold statement, especially when presented in one of the brand’s exuberant colourways. Consistent with other Doxa models, the case is tonneau-shaped with a circular bezel positioned on top. A glass box sapphire crystal sits above the dial, granting a period-style appearance and an interesting sense of depth to the composition.

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

The unidirectional bezel is marked with a combination of Arabic numerals and rectangular batons, with a triangular index at noon. The colour of the bezel matches the dominant colour of the hands or the shade of the dial, depending on the particular reference. Likewise, the tone of the bezel markings match the dial or the colour of the luminescent fill on the hands. Doxa has enhanced the appearance of each watch by optimally pairing the bezel shades with various dial components.

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

A castellated grip encircles the bezel, facilitating ease of adjustment. It blends both polished and matte finishes, enriching the overall appearance of the watch. The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph is modestly priced and yet it shows no signs of penny-pinching. The upper case surfaces and flanks are satin-brushed, while the bevelled surface connecting them is highly polished. Placing two contrasting finishes in close proximity heightens cost. Indeed, delivering clear delineation between satin-brushed and polished surfaces requires time and skill, something Doxa has achieved with notable aplomb.

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

The screw-down crown is partially recessed and sports the brand’s orange fish logo on its vertical flank. The pushpieces are smooth and do not project far from the caseband.

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

Doxa offers the SUB 200 C-Graph with either a ‘beads of rice bracelet’, fitted with a deployant clasp with a diver’s extension, or a rubber strap with a tang buckle. The rubber strap is marked with an interesting pattern which resembles a metal mesh-type bracelet.

Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph

While the aforementioned dimensions may at first sound daunting, the design of the case mitigates the sense of scale. The bracelet and strap nuzzle the watch head and the lugs don’t project much beyond the bezel. The result is the watch appears much smaller when worn.

The movement

Doxa has equipped the SUB 200 C-Graph with a ‘Swiss-made, chronograph, mechanical self-winding movement’. As it sits behind a solid caseback, it is not possible to appraise the finishing of the movement or ascertain its identity. However, the Swiss watch brand does state that the movement is ‘Decorated by Doxa’.

The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz) and the movement contains 27 jewels. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run autonomously for about 48 hours.

Closing remarks

Some time ago, on British television, a Toyota Hilux was pushed off the top of a tall building. After crashing to the ground, the television presenter got behind the wheel, started the engine and drove off. This short demonstration showcased the Japanese pickup’s über-robust construction.

Likewise, having worn several Doxa watches, I have always discerned a reassuring sense of solidity. Indeed, in a post-apocalyptic world, I suspect there will only be insects and Doxas.

The Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph is an affordable ownership proposition and yet it upholds the firm’s reputation for toughness. There are no signs of skimping and everything looks remarkably refined. It fulfils the remit for a practical watch with its clear indications and 200 metres water resistance. In addition, this model offers the additional functionality of a chronograph.

A prospective purchaser does not need to have Jacques Cousteau’s swimming medals to enjoy owning the SUB 200 C-Graph. It offers much for the ‘desk diver’, comes in a variety of shades, from retiring tones to diva hues, does virtually everything a wearer could possibly require and won’t break the bank. Once again, the watch brand from Biel/Bienne has produced a watch worthy of consideration.

Further reading

Technical specification

  • Model: Doxa SUB 300 SUB 200 C-Graph
  • Reference: 798.10.361.31 (yellow dial, yellow rubber strap)
  • Case: Stainless steel; dimensions 45.00 mm x 45.00 mm; height 17.4 mm; water resistance 20ATM (200 metres); sapphire crystal to front and solid case back
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date
  • Movement: ‘Swiss-made chronograph’; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz); 27 jewels; power reserve 48 hours
  • Strap: Yellow rubber strap with tang buckle
  • Price: £2550 (rubber strap – RRP as at 10.10.2020) / £2590 (beads of rice bracelet – RRP as at 10.10.2020)

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