Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec
The Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec Ref 00.10620.03.33.01 is unusual in that it can display three different time zones simultaneously. In addition, it is equipped with a chronograph and date display. Angus Davies gets ‘hands-on’ with this luxurious gold timepiece.
When I was a small boy, I would often shadow my father’s movements as he pottered around his dusty domain, the garage. There, sat alongside recycled jam jars containing screws in a variety of sizes, was a small container, interestingly named ‘3 IN ONE’. The metal flask-like container was filled with a special oil capable of ‘lubricating, cleaning and protecting metal surfaces’. To my father the liquid was magical. A small application of the oil and seized up parts suddenly became free, while annoying squeaks were banished to memory. My father always proclaimed the benefits of ‘3 IN ONE’.
I was recently reminded of ‘3 IN ONE’ after becoming acquainted with the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec. This behemoth timepiece is capable of displaying three different time zones, simultaneously. Moreover, this interesting watch is also equipped with a chronograph and date display. Suddenly, the reign of the multi-talented oil looks under threat.
After a few days evaluating the Patravi Traveltec I was able to gain a fascinating insight into this watch and its broad range of attributes.
The dial is delivered in an anthracite black hue with a tri-compax layout. Each subdial is snailed and framed with a brushed circlet of silvery metal. At 6 o’clock is a 12-hour chronograph register, while at 9 o’clock a 12-hour chronograph register resides. Positioned at 3 o’clock is a small seconds indication.
The hour and minute hands are open-worked, featuring white luminescent tips. Located between 4 and 5 o’clock, a round lens magnifies the prevailing date. A prominent red hand displays the ‘home time’ or second time zone. A central chronograph seconds hand completes the inventory of co-axially mounted hands.
Just below noon, the words ‘East’ and ‘West’ are proclaimed. The adjacent inner rotational hour ring is adjusted by the crown at 10 o’clock. The patented system allows the wearer to select the direction of rotation e.g. ‘W’ or ‘E’. This facility allows the wearer to refer to the guide on the case back and adjust the bezel, +/- the applicable number of hours, to display the prevailing hour in another time zone. The system is intuitive to use and the hour ring moves with a reassuringly positive action.
Gracing the periphery of the dial is an internal flange featuring an additional 24-hour scale, working in conjunction with the ‘second time zone’ hand.
The dial displays much information and could be described as ‘busy’, however, no aspect detracts from the objective of imparting information. Furthermore, each indication is efficiently communicated, free of ambiguity.
Measuring 46.6mm in diameter with a case height of 15.5mm, there is no escaping that the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec is a gargantuan watch. Moreover, the watch, presented in 18-carat rose gold, is incredibly heavy.
Personally, I appreciated the notable mass of the watch, finding a welcome reassurance in the value such weight implies. The size of this timepiece may prove too large for some slender wrists, but I found it accorded sufficient scale for the dial to remain very legible despite the sheer number of indications displayed.
The crown features a pronounced grip facilitating easy manipulation. The rectangular chronograph pushpieces operate smoothly and are attractively presented. Adjacent the aforementioned crown at 10 o’clock, a glazed aperture allows sight of the intricate adjustable hour ring mechanism. Everything feels constructed to an incredibly high standard.
The black calfskin strap is thick and sumptuous featuring contrasting stitching and a cheerful red lining. The folding clasp is delivered in 18-carat rose gold, adding to the considerable mass and feeling incredibly well made.
The self-winding CFB 1901.1 Caliber features 39 jewels and has a power reserve of 42 hours. In addition to its impressive suite of functions, the movement is also a certified chronometer, providing independent reassurance of its timekeeping prowess.
Owing to the solid case back a thorough appraisal of the finishing was not possible.
The Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec is a remarkable timepiece crafted to a high standard. The dial is populated with an array of indications but, owing to the design and its significantly large scale, it remains simple to read.
The sheer size of this horological leviathan may dissuade some would-be wearers, however, I found the watch accorded a comfortable fit, partly thanks to the sharply tapering lugs which encourage the strap to envelope the wrist.
There is a notable mass with this watch which may prove too great for some but I found the weight to proffer reassurance and convey a sense of worth, owing to the significant gold content of the timepiece.
Finally, this watch usurps ‘3 IN ONE’, delivering not only three time zones but incredible wrist presence making this an amazing horological masterpiece worthy of your attention.
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Traveltec
- Reference: 00.10620.03.33.01
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 46.6mm; height 15.5mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and solid caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; chronograph; three time zones
- Movement: Caliber CFB 1901.1, self-winding movement; frequency (not specified); 39 jewels; power reserve 42 hours.
- Strap: Black calfskin strap presented with a 18-carat rose gold pin lock folding clasp
- Price: CHF 42,500 (RRP as at 8.12.2016)