Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
Recently launched at Baselworld 2018, the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral combines the brand’s patented peripheral automatic winding system with an ingenious ‘floating tourbillon’. Angus Davies reviews this watch in detail.
This detailed review of the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral includes live images and detailed specification.
Normally when attending the theatre, the audience is positioned front of stage, in order to observe the sanitised spectacle ahead. However, sitting to the side of the stage, a spectator can observe events from a totally different perspective. My point is, by assuming a different position one can sometimes see something new.
Carl F. Bucherer, the Swiss watch brand from the glorious idyll of Lucerne, has a rich history of looking at watchmaking from a different viewpoint. In 2008, the company ‘was the first manufacturer to put the peripheral automatic winding system into series production’. This know-how featured within the maison’s CFB A1000 manufacture movement and some eight years later, in 2016, it was used within the CFB A2000 calibre. Now, the peripheral winding system is employed within Carl F. Bucherer’s latest movement, the CFB T3000.
However, there is much more to the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral than the CFB T3000 movement and its unusual winding system. This timepiece also features a ‘floating tourbillon’.
A conventional tourbillon is sandwiched between two bridges, one above the carriage and one below. A flying tourbillon is affixed with only one bridge from below. The ‘floating tourbillon’ is held ‘securely in position and supported peripherally by three ceramic ball bearings’. The ceramic ball bearings are not visible to the wearer and, as such, the tourbillon cage appears to float inside the watch. Once again, Carl F. Bucherer illustrates its innovative temperament. It also has a patent pending for this ingenious system.
Gold plated, facetted lancet-shaped hour and minute hands converse with the wearer with clear, softly spoken tone. Despite, the cutting-edge ‘floating tourbillon’, this remains an elegant, classically styled watch.
The tourbillon sits below noon, setting aside the typical southern location found with most tourbillon models. The position of the floating tourbillon fanfares its importance without appearing gauche. Indeed, this watch could never be accused of crass behaviour, it is a paragon of good taste.
Sat atop the tourbillon cage is a second hand which rotates 360° every 60 seconds. Its slender tip integrates with a small chapter ring encircling the tourbillon opening.
The silver-coloured dial surface features a glorious sunray motif and the hours are denoted with gold-plated wedge-shaped indices. The surface of the dial is convex, augmenting the allure of the vista presented.
The attraction of the floating tourbillon is that it provides unhindered views of the tourbillon cage rotating. Conversely, despite the exposed tourbillon cage, the dial remains uncluttered and simple to read.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral shares the same case shape as other Manero models. The 43.1mm case features lugs which sharply taper inwards, accentuating the roundness of the case. It is presented in 18-carat rose gold, conferring a sumptuous appearance to the watch.
A small indentation on the case-band allows the wearer’s finger nail to gain purchase on the crown, permitting the wearer to easily pull it outwards. Carl F. Bucherer’s attention to detail is very impressive.
The sapphire crystal is convex, mimicking the profile of the dial. To the rear of the watch, an additional pane of sapphire crystal grants a view of the CFB T3000 manufacture calibre.
The tourbillon was conceived to counter gravity’s negative influence on the balance of a timepiece. By placing the escapement within a rotating cage, the positional errors are offset. However, despite the enhanced precision this complication confers, there is a fundamental weakness found with most tourbillons.
With the majority of tourbillons, the wearer is unable to stop the seconds hand and synchronise the watch with a reference clock. It is therefore inevitable that most tourbillons do not show the exact time. The movement within the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral is different. It is fitted with a stop-seconds function, facilitating precise time setting.
Despite the traditional mien of this watch, the movement employs some state of the art technology. The escapement features a pallet and escape wheel made from silicon. ‘Due to its low friction, this system can run without lubrication, which increases the power reserve to at least 65 hours, and cannot be negatively impacted by magnetic fields’.
While Carl F. Bucherer has embraced modernity it has not abandoned traditional finissage. The movement bridge is adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and sports gleaming bevels. The fitment of the peripheral automatic winding system confers an unobstructed view of the movement, allowing the wearer to absorb the beauty of the CFB T3000 manufacture calibre.
The timepiece is a certified chronometer (COSC), a reassuring statement of the watch’s precision.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral is an elegant timepiece suffused with a myriad of qualities.
The dial is gorgeous. The sunray motif collaborates with the wedge-shaped indices and lancet-shaped hands to form a harmonious composition. Beyond its aesthetic prowess, the hands and dial proffer peerless legibility. Where some tourbillons overwhelm the dial with excessive proportions and garish text, the dial of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral is not blighted with such indiscretions.
‘Subtle’ is an apt description to describe the design language of this watch. The 43.1mm case is not unduly large and sits snugly upon the wrist, courtesy of its sublime ergonomic fit. While the case thickness of 11.57mm could not be described as ‘ultra-thin’, it remains modest, especially considering the presence of a tourbillon and the provision of automatic winding. Indeed, it is because of the design of this tourbillon and the peripheral automatic winding system that the watch is not thicker.
Beyond its beautiful appearance, the movement is imbued with a host of noteworthy features. The wearer can use the stop-seconds function to precisely synchronise the watch with a reference clock. The use of silicon components mitigates friction and, in so doing, provides an impressive power reserve. The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral is a COSC-certified chronometer, granting independent reassurance about its accuracy.
By positioning the tourbillon cage close to the edge of the dial, the watch is blessed with an attractive aesthetic. The floating tourbillon appears to be magically suspended in mid air. Moreover, the absence of upper and lower bridges grant an unhindered view of the peripherally mounted tourbillon cage rotating.
Carl F. Bucherer has stood to one side, viewed existing tourbillons and oscillating weights from an alternative perspective and delivered a breathtaking quotient of ingenuity. Indeed, similar to an all-knowing theatre director, gaining great insight from the wings of the stage, this Swiss company has shown that much wisdom can be found in the peripheral areas of watchmaking.
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 43.1mm; height 11.57mm; sapphire crystal to front and case-back; water resistant to 3 atm (30 metres)
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds
- Movement: CFB T3000 manufacture caliber; Automatic movement; frequency 21,600 VpH (3Hz); 32 jewels; power reserve of at least 65 hours; COSC-certified chronometer
- Strap: Dark brown alligator strap with 18-carat rose gold pin buckle.