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Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163

Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the new Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163. This watch masterfully blends an oval shaped bezel with a circular case, delightfully referencing the hypnotic effect of water with its unique design codes.

This detailed review of the Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 includes live images, specification details and pricing.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

The Genevan brand, Baume & Mercier, markets its products to those wishing to acknowledge special moments and has released a new range of feminine timepieces, name Promesse.

The new range includes a vast array of references to sate a broad range of needs, tastes and budgets. Quartz models start from a very accessible £1300 (RRP as at 7.9.2014). However, as regular readers of ESCAPEMENT will know, I have a predilection for mechanical wristwatches and, thankfully, Baume & Mercier has five models which “fit the bill”.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

Recently, I visited Baume & Mercier’s UK office and looked at various models, including the Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163. This timepiece is delivered with a 34mm case, albeit the brand also offers alternative models with a smaller 30mm case.

The design

Baume & Mercier has always had a remarkable knack of designing very wearable watches for both men and women. Previously, I have written about the talented design team based at the brand’s Genevan design studio and, in particular, the work of Alexandre Peraldi and Sara Josephine Sandmeier.

The skill of this maison is its ability to create watches with a notable air of luxury whilst offering good value for money. I have worn several of Baume & Mercier’s watches and have found that with familiarity comes a warm sense of affection for many of the brand’s models. However, in this instance, with my conspicuously masculine and hirsute arms, I sought the assistance of an obliging female in order to gain an insight of how the watch would appear in situ and gain feedback on its feel upon the wrist.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

All models are presented in steel with some featuring “red gold-capped steel” elements.

Where the Clifton model referenced a 1950s model, the Promesse takes its inspiration from a 1970s watch from the brand’s museum collection. Baume & Mercier is not making replicas of forming models, but rather using the historic models to inspire a new generation of watches.

The round case incorporates an oval shaped bezel. The manipulation of different forms delivers a pleasing and interesting aesthetic.

The steel bracelet features a ripple design conferring the same hypnotic effect as the ever decreasing circles produced when a stone is cast in water. Each link captures light in its own unique way, its relative position interfacing with the sun differently. Indeed, the resultant mien has a fluidity which is very attractive.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

Each model offers a subtle aspect of differentiation.

All variants of the Promesse feature Roman numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, some use applied batons to denote the intervening hours, whereas other models introduce a dash of additional sparkle, incorporating diamond-set indexes.

The movement

I am pleased to report that powering the Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 is a self-winding Swiss-made movement, incorporating some pleasing finishing and imbued with a degree of passion.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

 The oscillating mass on the MOA 10163 is adorned with Côtes de Genève motif and features the brand’s logo, the Greek letter, Phi. There is some perlage visible beneath the oscillating mass and colimaçon is visible on the main plate. When compared with a haute horlogerie timepiece, the finissage may be described as “industrial”, but nevertheless, at this price level, it is very agreeable.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

An exhibition case back allows the wearer to see the movement, another welcome aspect to the specification of this self-winding Promesse.

The Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 in detail

The polished steel case looks resplendent, with an alluring blend of light and shade populating its form. This two-tone bi-metallic watch features the aforementioned red “gold-capped” steel. It is this latter aspect which infuses the model with a noteworthy warmth. Moreover, the two shades make it ideal for partnering with steel, white or red gold jewellery.

Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 - in-depth watch review by ESCAPEMENT

Dauphine shaped hands tastefully convey the hours and minutes. They have a faceted profile, again, masterfully interfacing with ambient light. A slim, graceful central sweep seconds hand completes the functions presented.

It is the dial which particularly garners my attention with this model. It features a “drapé” guilloché. This motif comprises of a series of wave-like ripples, emanating from the centre of the dial. The repeated reference to water delivers an abundance of charm and enhances the cohesion of the overall composition.

The red gold coloured Roman applied numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are sizeable and attracive, aiding interpretation. In addition, the small diamonds occupying the remaining hour markers make this timepiece a very elegant affair.

The bracelet is also bi-metallic and successfully fuses polished and satin-finished surfaces.

Closing remarks

The MOA 10163 is my preferred model of the range, offering a successful mix of silvery and golden hues. The interplay of the oval bezel within a round case delivers intrigue and beauty in equal measure.

I quizzed the female wearer about its feel upon her arm. Her reply was very positive and she explained that it had a gentle, cosseting union with the wrist. Running my probing digits across each surface of the watch, I couldn’t detect any sharp edges and have no doubt that the feedback from the female wearer would be echoed by many other ladies.

The Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163 is priced at a very competitive £3400 (RRP as at 7.9.2014) and is a perfect example of an accessible, stylish watch with a Swiss-made automatic movement. Indeed, Baume & Mercier has produced superb watches ince 1860, delivering a competitive blend of quality and value and this Promesse uphold this enviable reputation.

Technical Specification

  • Model: Baume & Mercier Promesse MOA 10163
  • Reference: 10163
  • Case: stainless steel; diameter 34.40 mm; height 9.33 mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds.
  • Movement: self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 21 jewels; Power reserve 42 hours.
  • Bracelet: Bi-metallic bracelet featuring a triple folding clasp with security push-pieces
  • Price: £3,400 (as at 7.9.2014)

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