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Panerai Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso 45 mm Special Edition (PAM 395)
Panerai Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso 45 mm Special Edition (PAM 395) is not bold, not brash, but quite beautiful, a vision to savour. It is luxurious in its red gold case but references the maritime watches of a bygone era. Dr. Edwina Davies reviews this stylish high-end watch.
The name presents all the salient details. The family name “Radiomir” immediately helps the visualisation but this is a watch which is bold, not brash, but quite beautiful, a vision to savour. It is a watch with two exquisitely elegant faces.
It has a retro feel and is based on the vintage, Small Egiziano.
Whilst familiar to those who delight in Panerai, its features are worthy of full admiration. The palette is limited, brown and gold. The numerals and hour markers are cut out of the plate exposing the luminous material beneath. The form of the Arabic numerals is a delight. There are no sharp corners, only flowing lines, graceful curves, shapely forms. I love the curling nine. Even the batons are rounded, their edges softened.
The hour and minute hands are broad whilst the second hand is slimmer. Its lithe line is topped by an isosceles triangle which points more dramatically than the gentler equilateral triangles atop each of the other hands. It is in the detail that this watch captivates.
The name in gently rounded upper case is set at twelve o’clock. The date aperture is at three o’clock and at nine o’clock is the second time zone with second reset facility and 24 hour indicator. The latter is interestingly in two halves, pm and am and the hands with their fuller forms are in contrast to the straight lines of the hour and minute hands.
Set in the lower half of the dial is a linear depiction of the 8 day power reserve; again the indicator is contrasting in shape.
The variety of hand forms might be a distraction but rather it affirms the different role of each and because of the harmony of colour, the restful tones, adds a pleasing interesting element.
Fashioned in warm, red gold, 45 mm in diameter, the cushion shaped case frames the round brown face perfectly. The case, bezel, the slender chapter ring, all polished, reflect off each other, the angles and lines between them catching the light.
The wire lugs are curved, sculpted loops, and whilst they used to be welded to the case they are now attached by 4 screws, visible on the reverse of the case back. Panerai has the patent. This facilitates changing the strap.
The knurled screw-down winding crown with the “OP” attribution rests at three o’clock.
For me, however, the excitement comes when the reverse of the case is viewed. Sapphire crystal affords both front and reverse to be enjoyed.
The exhibition case back presents a glowing showcase for the movement. Within the cushion form rests a twelve sided polygon, a dodecagon. Within that a circle, brush finished, with the legend, “Officine Panerai” and “Firenze 1860”, not etched into the surface but raised. Other brand and technical details also presented in relief providing a pleasing contrast of finishes.
The inner circle presents the movement, fully open to view with rubies and red gold wheels. Looking through the sapphire crystal case back the whole can be enjoyed, the skeletonized, hand-chamfered bridges not impeding the gaze so that the spring can be observed whilst winding and the circular graining of the plates admired.
The movement is hand wound with GMT function, mechanical, the P2002. It comprises 247 components and has 21 jewels. It possesses three barrels, an oscillation of 4Hz. It boasts the KIF Parechoc anti-shock device and Glucydur balance.
It has a power reserve of 8 days.
First launched in 2005 it was inspired by the Angelus movement of the 1940s. Its visual delights I have already extolled.
Water resistant to 50 metres, with the screw-down winding crown mitigating against any ingression of water as might be expected of this provider of watches to the Royal Italian Navy, this is a sturdy watch which promises reliability and dependability.
The strap is of brown alligator with contrasting stitching. It is fastened by a red gold adjustable buckle.
Sometimes a watch has an immediate appeal but some detail grates. This watch has immediate appeal but I find no fault in it.
- Model: Panerai Radiomir 8 Days GMT Oro Rosso 45 mm Special Edition
- Reference: PAM 395
- Case: 18-carat red gold; diameter 45.00 mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds; date; second time zone, 24 hour indicator; linear power reserve and seconds reset.
- Movement: P.2002/10 calibre, manual-wind; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 21 jewels; power reserve 8 days.
- Strap: Brown Alligator leather strap on red gold pin buckle.