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Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve
Dr. Edwina Davies reviews the Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve, a stylish timepiece which clearly appeals to her tastes.
I admit. I am rather obsessional. I like balance, symmetry. Things have to be even...no odd numbers, centred, but I also like the unpredictable so this watch fulfils my wishes. It has a pleasing form, all conforms to the chosen palette and outline but there is also an unusual visual stimulus.
For the most part this is a symphony of grey, black and white, stainless steel and rubber. The cushion shaped face traces the case outline and has an inner boundary defined in grey, an inner bezel of stainless steel and an outer bezel which is surfaced in black rubber. The different elements of the watch are outlined in a pleasing series of contrasting materials and, therefore, tones.
The dial surface is black, brushed, sunray.
The minutes are simply and unpretentiously marked whilst the hours are robustly defined, faceted and diamond polished. They radiate, angled to follow the line of bezel and case.
Robustness and legibility are adhered to in the strong hands, aerodynamic, skeletonized, with white luminous inserts at their points, sturdy, sword shaped. They point unequivocally.
Other functions are similarly clearly indicated.
Resting in the lower half of the dial is the small seconds. It is in the same cushion form, outlined broadly in stainless steel with the seconds marked off in units of fine, black strokes except for the 15, 30 and 45 intervals where Arabic numerals are used. There is a 60 second numbering but that rests black against the white of the innermost element of the dial. The inner chapter ring marks all seconds, white against black. “EvoTec” is noted within this dial, not as is more common with watch’s familial names, but on the main dial. The dial stands out, making its own statement but complying with the requisites of colour and shape dictated in the design. It is modern, masculine, obeying its own structural rules but then flouting convention in the other features it presents.
Unusual placing of day and date add interest.
The date is presented framed in a silver, stainless steel, elongated cushion with an outer and inner border, at 11 o’clock. The black date numbers stand out against the white background.
The actual day is presented in an aperture at 9 o’clock in simple black uppercase against a white background.
What is most innovative is the power reserve indicator which rests at 3 o’ clock.
Boldly housed in stainless steel, a curved aperture traces the line between 2 o’ clock and 4 o’ clock. At its lower end the indication, “Low” is in warning red; centrally, “Charge”, amber coloured, announces the need for action, whilst at its apex, the security of “High” is presented in green. The red alert’s progress is marked by as the underlying surface in that hue which is revealed as the red arrow progresses and the white upper surface recedes.
Startling, innovative, it excites. It echoes the red of the Carl F Bucherer logo which rests above his name in the upper dial, a logo itself which seems to have an innate movement within its form.
The pleasure of its viewing is facilitated by an anti-reflective, domed sapphire crystal.
The case is 43.75 mm by 44.5 mm and has a height of 13.95 mm with both brushed and polished surfaces.
It is of stainless steel and the bezel has a coating of natural rubber.
Solidly housed in a protective mount of brushed stainless steel is the similarly coated rubber crown. The rubber facilitates grip and, therefore, the watch’s winding. The fact that it is a screw down crown prevents water ingress and the watch is water resistant to 50 metres.
The lugs are powerful with a functional form. When taken in conjunction with the power level indicator and the visible screws adjacent to the crown and also on the case back, the watch has an purposeful feel and honest character.
The reverse of the case is the same harmonious arrangement of black and grey as the front with the cushion shape accentuated and enriched by the etched lines delineating the shapes within its shape, and also echoing the lines within the movement. Geometric forms have their appeal. The watch’s details are etched in the case surround.
Fortuitously the case also has a sapphire crystal exhibition case back which allows the scrutiny of the interior of the watch. There the pleasure of a modern finish and clean lines can be enjoyed in studying the movement.
The automatic manufacture movement, caliber CFB A1002 is based on the CFB A1000, Carl F Bucherer’s first in-house movement.
It is 32 mm by 6.3 mm and has 33 jewels.
Admiring the actual movement’s form, the crisp clean straight lines, with their different surface textures, both brushed and polished are angular, robust and contrast with the delicacy of the gold coloured cogs and the darker hued solidity of the spring barrel. Again there is the joy of satin, matte and brushed surfaces.
The movement has a modernity and perceived strength.
The strap is quite distinctive.
Of black calf skin externally, it is red inside, a pleasing connection with the red details on the dial. The stitches sink into the leather emphasising its thickness and adding a touch of luxury.
It has a stainless steel folding clasp which affords easy adjustment, with attractive pearl finish. It is also enhanced by the depiction of the creator’s name and logo.
Lines, outlines, subtle shading bestow this watch with a pleasing aesthetic. However, at its heart resides a mechanical integrity and meritorious movement.
It satisfies my craving for structure and surprise.
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Patravi EvoTec PowerReserve
- Reference: 00.10627.13.33.01
- Case: Stainless steel; dimensions 43.75 mm × 44.5 mm, height 13.95 mm ; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; subsidiary seconds; big date; day; power reserve indicator.
- Movement: Manufacture caliber CFB A1002, self-winding; 33 jewels; power reserve 55 hours
- Strap: Black calf skin strap with red reverse. Stainless steel folding clasp.