Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chronoperpetual Limited Edition Ref 00.10906.03.33.01
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chronoperpetual Limited Edition combines a flyback chronograph with a perpetual calendar. Angus Davies spends a week with this exemplar of exalted watchmaking and reports on his experience.
Divorce statistics attest that for many individuals marriage is not forever. Cars don’t last indefinitely as scrapyards illustrate. And, as many parents know, a fridge full of food doesn’t last long in a house full of teenagers.
However, imagine for a moment a watch designed to only require manual correction of its date every 100 years. Indeed, consider a timepiece which is engineered to outlast its owner and confer ownership delight for many generations. The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chronoperpetual Limited Edition is such a watch.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chronoperpetual Limited Edition combines a flyback chronograph with a perpetual calendar, mechanically making allowance for the differing lengths of each month, including leap years.
A press loan recently arrived for my evaluation and a period of pleasure soon ensued.
The anthracite canvas has a delightful sultry quality, ideal for displaying the numerous indications to optimal effect. The chronograph and perpetual counter indications are combined in three subdials.
Below noon, a subdial is presented in elliptical form. The date is shown on a silver background encircling the subdial, while at the heart of this subdial is a small seconds display.
Positioned at 6 o’clock, a 12-hour chronograph register is located, employing a white hand to impart information against a black background. Encircling the 12-hour chronograph register is a day display, delivered on a silver-hued circlet.
At 9 o’clock, three indications are combined. At the centre is a leap-year indicator, while a 30-minute chronograph register and a month display occupy the periphery of the subdial.
A moon-phase display is presented via a crescent shaped aperture at 3 o’clock. The sword-shaped hour and minute hands are lined with luminescent material, producing a green emission in restricted light.
The hours are predominantly indicated with triangular, faceted golden indexes, although some are marked with luminescent dots.
Around the periphery of the dial is a tachymeter scale proving ideal for measuring the speed of objects over a defined distance.
I did find the leap-year indicator a little difficult to read, mainly owing to my ageing eye-sight, but otherwise everything proved highly legible and simple to interpret.
The watch sits unobtrusively upon the wrist, courtesy of its 42.5mm diameter case. Neither the crown nor the pushpieces impinge upon the arm. Indeed, wearer comfort is assured.
The sapphire crystal is of the glassbox variety, providing a lateral slither of dialscape. Moreover, the glassbox allows light to flood the dial aiding legibility of all dial functions presented. The bezel is satin-brushed and concave, capturing the light in a muted manner.
While the upper surface of the lugs are satin finished, all remaining surfaces of the case, along with the pin buckle, are highly polished. Carl F. Bucherer has expertly steered between the covert and the flamboyant, resulting in a gorgeous and very tasteful offering.
The caseband features four corrector pushpieces. At 2:30, the corrector adjusts the moon phase, while at 4:30 the pushpiece adjusts the day display. The date is altered by the pushpiece at 8 o’clock. The month and leap-year indications are adjusted by the corrector at 9 o’clock. Assuming the watch is kept wound, the correctors will see little use. By adopting this approach the case is kept tidy and adjustments are simple to execute.
The capstan-style pushers are easy to operate and prove comfortable to use.
Adorning the reverse of the case is a sapphire crystal according sight of the self-winding movement within.
The Louisiana alligator leather strap is hand-stitched and paired with an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle, reinforcing the sumptuous feel of the watch.
The automatic CFB 1904 caliber contains 49 jewels and has a power reserve of 50 hours. The design of the oscillating mass and bridges is ultra-modern with strong geometric lines much in evidence.
The rotor is constructed of 22 carat gold, featuring both brushed and frosted sections and embracing straight lines and contemporary aesthetics. Likewise, the bridges eschew traditional Côtes de Genève motif, again featuring frosted and brushed surfaces and contemporary styling.
A sunray motif features on the partly revealed ratchet wheel. I also noted on the exposed wheels that they are circular grained. Beneath the balance wheel, delightful episodes of petit perlage are in evidence, which evoked a smile upon my face. Indeed, despite the modernity of the movement architecture, traditional craftsmanship and finishing have not been abandoned.
Most things in life have a lifespan, nothing lasts forever. However, while the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chronoperpetual Limited Edition may not last for a thousand years, its exalted construction and thoughtful design should ensure it outlives its fortunate owner.
The only caveat I would proffer is to remember to have the watch regularly serviced and treat it with the due respect a timepiece of this quality deserves. Assuming you do, this timepiece should faithfully provide many years of perpetual pleasure.
- Model: Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chronoperpetual Limited Edition
- Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 42.5mm; height 14.3mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
- Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; date; day; leap year; moonphase; tachymeter; perpetual calendar; chronograph
- Movement: Caliber CFB 1904, self-winding movement; frequency (not specified); 49 jewels; power reserve 50 hours.
- Strap: Black Louisiana alligator leather strap presented with a 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
- Price: CHF 41,900 (RRP as at 26.1.2017)
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces